The Mystery of the Gorge – Deliana or Mesavlia?

This-a-way

Or That-a-way?

The walk through the gorge between Deliana and Mesavlia is one of our favourites, and described in our book ‘More Walks from Paleohora’ (see below.)  Our route approaches Deliana from the west, through the village of Malathyros, but here’s an equally pleasant alternative which reaches Deliana from the east, by way of the even smaller village of Kalami.

Distant view of the gorge

This walk fits in with the ‘bus schedules, taking the 7.15am from Paleohora, returning on the bus leaving Chania at 12.45pm, and gives ample time of over five hours for a distance of around 12km.  Or drive 2km beyond Mesavlia, and park on the highest point of the road over to Chania, overlooking the gorge (just where the road begins to descend.)

Start from the small roadside hut, ‘Honey from the Bee-keeper’, where local honey is on sale during the summer months. (Ask on the bus to stop at ‘spiti meli’.)  Walk on towards Chania, then after some 200m turn sharp left on a track winding downhill between vineyards.  After a short distance pass through a gate, closing it carefully after you, as there are many sheep in this valley.  The track leads pleasantly downhill through olive groves, eventually, after around 2km (30 mins) swinging right, more steeply, towards the village of Kalami. Left of the track, surrounded by cypress trees, is the church of St. John the Theologian, worth the short diversion through olive trees.

Walking the gorge path

The path from the church re-joins the main track and leads towards the tiny village.  On reaching the surfaced road below the village turn left, then almost immediately left again on a descending track, which will take you to Deliana, 2km distant.  On the way, a sharp left turn after 1km will take you directly to the gorge, avoiding the village.  Continue past another small church, less interesting, and when the track meets a surfaced road, turn left into Deliana, where there are several cafes for a mid-morning coffee or early lunch.

Walk over the bridge, through Deliana, and be sure to visit the church of Agios Ioannis, which has exceptional frescos.  On the outskirts of the village turn left on the track indicating ‘Gorge of Deliana’, and 15 mins later reach the entrance to the gorge. With picnic tables under shady plane trees, and a water tap nearby, it’s a delightful place to rest awhile.

Perfect for a Picnic

The gorge, though short, is impressive – not on the scale of Agia Irini (see May’s ‘Explore’) or Samaria of course, but delightful to walk through.  In winter or early spring you may have to paddle or wade across some or all of the six shallow fords in the lower part (so take a small towel!)

Permanent resident of the gorge but does he know which gorge?

There’s a mystery here, for a short way up the gorge (of Deliana) there are signs that it’s actually the Gorge of Mesavlia.  Both the administrative areas (dimos) of Kolimbari and Voukolies claim it as their own,  a dispute long unresolved.  No matter, you will have enjoyed walking through both the Gorge of Deliana and Mesavlia in the space of half an hour!

Climbing steadily, watch out for the enormous griffon vultures which are frequently seen soaring above the gorge, and nest in the immense limestone cliffs.  Pass the little church of Agia Paraskevi, tucked under a rock face, after which the stony track steepens to meet a wider track (to Malathyros).  Turn left, then walk through the scattered houses of Mesavlia village, cross over a little stream, and finally up to the main road and bus shelter.

The bus to Paleohora passes approx. 1 hour after leaving Chania  –  or if you’ve parked near the start of the walk,  you’ve still another 2km back to the car ……

‘More Walks from Paleohora’ on sale (only) at ‘To Delfini’ bookshop in the village centre.