New Year, a new decade, with an Olympic Games – and in deference to the Olympic motto of “Citius, Altius, Fortius” ( faster, higher, stronger), our Explore ! theme for the coming year will be – Further, Fitter, and Finding (new paths …) And to slightly misquote Tennyson :
“ Not in vain the distance beckons … forward, forward let us explore …”
So here’s a challenging walk to begin 2020, and remember, “when the going gets tough, the tough get going.” En route, to encourage you, lies the rarely-visited Athanassios Gorge, and the little known Byzantine monastery of Agia Varvara (St Barbara) in Latziana.
A scenic drive of 32km will take you through Plemeniana, Aligi, Strovles, and down the Tiflos valley to Katsomatados, then over a bridge to park at the Archondas taverna. We’ve previously enjoyed this as a long circular walk, returning via the Topolia Gorge, but recent storms and stonefall make this at least dangerous and possibly impassable ; better to leave a car in Topolia village, close to the bakery, which makes a good place to finish.
The Crete Trekking Map sheet 401 is advisable, as is a coffee in the hospitable taverna before setting off, heading east on the track rising through the valley, then taking a left turn which climbs to reach the small church of Agios Dimitrios.
Onwards and upwards, eventually to reach the col/saddle at 540m, and a gate, beyond which the track descends to Sassalos. What views Pip, what views! Go ahead, through the gate, drop down just a few metres, then take the track left contouring north around the hillside, which leads (keeping left again at a fork) to Agios Athanassios, delightfully situated, sheltered by plane trees at the head of the eponymous gorge.
The entry into the gorge, which is barely a kilometre long – beauty comes in small measures – is located rear of the church, above a deepening gully ; there’s a path of sorts on the right (east) side, with faded red waymarking. Find your way below plane trees and later through waist-high Jerusalem sage bushes.
After c.500m it becomes steeper and rockier, dropping through boulders right of the streambed – care needed here – to reach a dirt road, where you turn left for an easy 2km into Mouri.
There being no kafenion in Mouri, walk through the village to a turning left, just before the large church of Agios Nikolaos – an interesting church with a water-tap. This track rises gradually NW through olive trees and vineyards to reach the ridge, where you keep left to begin the winding descent to Latziana. Below the few houses here, at the junction of road/track, lie the ruins of Agia Varvara, an 11th century Byzantine monastery ; there’s a signed path with steps leading down.
Imagine how this looked a thousand years ago …. but be careful of the crumbling masonry.
Leave in the same (southerly) direction, under giant plane trees and a water supply (dated 1959).
Pass a small white chapel, and with Topolia Gorge ahead, descend to another Y-junction, keeping right, from where the track zig-zags down into Kapsaniana. Cross the bridge and immediately climb left, away from the river (Tiflos). After 250m a track leads left down to an impressive Venetian bridge, well-worth the diversion.
Unless you’re tempted by the Topolia Gorge, keep uphill to pass the cemetery/church of Ag. Evangelistra into Topolia, where, as well as the bakery, there are several tavernas, and (if necessary) possibly a taxi service back to Katsomatados.
Should you return to Archondas, celebrate a good day’s walk with “family raki ..” Kali Xronia !
The winner of the 2019 Paleochora Christmas Puzzle, chosen at random from a Petrakis supermarket bag is….(drumroll please)
Hannah Kilduff
Congratulations, Hannah! There is a €10 voucher for you at the Delphini Bookshop in Paleochora when you are next in town.
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