Anyone considering hiring a bike and planning a cycle ride from Paleohora should bear in mind the first verse of Christina Rossetti’s poem ‘Up-Hill’ :
‘Does the road wind up-hill all the way ?’
‘Yes, to the very end.’
‘Will the day’s journey take the whole long day ?’
‘From morn to night, my friend.’
That’s certainly true (almost) if you cycle up to Sklavopoula, as three friends and I did at the end of March. The climb of 20km and over 700m ascent took us around 3.5 hrs, although we stopped off in Voutas (for water) and in Moustakos for traditional and spontaneous Cretan hospitality.
Moustakos
As we rested in the village centre, Maria and Andreas brought us the inevitable raki, with plates of hazel nuts and small fish (merida), and told us more about the village. Fifty years ago, Maria said, there were a hundred inhabitants, but now just twenty permanent residents, and it’s a lonely life for the elderly in winter, being so isolated. She lives in Chania, and was spending Easter in the family home. From Sklavopoula, after lemonade and kalitsounia in the little cafenion, we freewheeled 16km back to Paleohora in just 40 minutes.
Easier rides out of Paleohora are east to Ianniscari (Anidri) beach, 4km each way, and for the more energetic, a climb of 5km and 200m to Anidri village, for lunch or mezedes in the former school, now ‘To Scolio’ taverna. West of the town are the beaches of Grammeno, 5km each way, and Krios (8km e.w), although traffic along the road can be both fast and furious, and dangerous for cycling.
Here’s a challenging ride of 32km (20m), suitable for fit cyclists with low-geared machines. Set off early, and carry water and sun-protection. Take the main Kandanos road north out of Paleohora for 3km to the Azogires turn, where the road really does wind steeply uphill for 2km, then gradually eases off into the village. With half the climbing completed – although only a quarter of the distance – you’ve earned a drink and rest in the ‘Alpha’ cafe.
Azogires
Continue out of the village for 1km, with waterfalls in the little river below, then turn right, signposted ‘Asfendiles 3’, and ride through a ford, where water flows until high summer. As the road steadily gains height the views widen, with Paleohora now in sight way below.
The Ford at Azogires
Above and beyond Asfendiles the surfaced road becomes a rough track for around 2km, as it climbs to the next village, Platanes. On a distinctive bend, pass by the old schoolhouse, sadly now derelict, which served the two villages, but what a place to go to school! Far below is the sea, glimmering in the distance, and the road snaking downhill towards it. A long descent to look forward to after all the exertion.
Admiring the View at Platanes
High above the road is Yrtakina, a Dorian hill site well worth a visit, but more of that another time. On the left is a spring of ice-cold water, which will be much appreciated after the climb of around 760m (2,500ft) from sea level. Now the road is surfaced again, and a road junction reached. It’s practically all downhill from here, with 17km of freewheeling through Prodromi (4km) and Anidri (12km) back to Paleohora. It’s advisable to wear a helmet now, as there are no roadside barriers, and with possible rocks and goats around every bend, a fall at speed could be serious.
If only there was one which gushed cold beer
Prodromi is a small hill village dominated by the church of Aghios Charalambos, and with great views, if you’re cycling slow enough to appreciate them. Further down at Anidri, a tap opposite the ‘To Scolio’ will provide more water, although the cafenion is really too good to pass by. Some 15 minutes later, after riding through a scenic mini-gorge, you’ll be back in Paleohora.
The turnoff to Prodromi
If you’re looking for guided cycle tours, contact Hellas Bikes (www.hellasbike.net) who organise day & half-day tours, largely downhill, graded between Very Easy & Difficult. They also promote ‘Master Open Races’ for serious racing cyclists. A Master Race weekend in Paleohora over June 12th/13th includes a time-trial, and a long-distance race from Paleohora to Chania. And of course I’ll be there at the start line of the race ……. but just watching!
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