Several readers (okay, three actually) left appreciative comments after our kayak trip from Agia Roumeli to Sougia (see ‘Explore’, June 2009), and others, local residents and visitors, have asked if we’ve paddled from Paleochora to Sougia around Akrotiri (Cape) Flomes – the head of the ‘Crocodile’. Yes, many times, and backwards too – not literally obviously, but the journey between Paleochora and Sougia in either direction, on foot or by kayak, is the ‘classic’ in this area.
But while the walk from Paleochora to Sougia measures 16km, with 560m of ascent, and takes 5/6 hours, the distance by kayak – on a calm flat sea – is just 14km (or 7.5 nautical miles), and at an average speed of 4 kph takes around 3.5 hrs. This is ‘kayak time’ of course, and breaks at Ianniscari (Anidri) beach, ‘Thunder Cove’ and Lissos, to stretch legs, picnic and swim, add as much time again.
Thunder Cove
An especially enjoyable voyage to Sougia was last June, with Dominique and her ‘crew’ of ‘Chausette’ on the bows of the kayak. We launched from Votsala (the ‘stony beach’) around 11.00am, with just a slight swell on the sea, practically no wind and of course sunny. The long beach at Keratides was deserted except for Carol (Popi) waving us ‘Bon voyage’ or rather ‘Kalo Taxidi’ from the shore. Rounding the narrow spit of rocks beyond which are the two Ianniscari beaches, we looked up the gorge to the once little Cretan village, now sprawling metropolis of Anidri. The water is shallow here, but as clear as crystal, so ‘siga ,siga’ – slowly, slowly – there is little danger of grounding. A few weeks previously I had floated close to a pair of black-winged stilts standing on the rocks here, beautiful wading birds with strikingly long pink legs, who had only taken flight when I was just metres away. Now they had migrated further north.
An hour after leaving Votsala we came ashore on the shingle beach, with onlookers amazed as always to see a small dog leaping from the front of the kayak. Ten minutes to stretch our legs, two and four, then on to ‘Thunder Cove’, a tiny secluded beach hidden away behind Cape Plakes. The name, we think, derives from the noise the surf makes, crashing through small caves in rough seas. Calm today though, and ideal for a swim and lunch in the shade.
An interesting digression here : in June 2008 two Italians, Salvatore Bartoli and Giacomo Della Gatta, set off from Myrtos to kayak (clockwise) around the entire coastline of Crete, returning there 19 days later after paddling 400 nautical miles (740 km). On Day 6 they kayaked from Loutro to Paleochora, 23 n/miles (43km), stayed the night with local fishermen, and next day continued around Elafonisi to Cape Mouros, a further 15m (23km). Their daily log, and some superb photos, can be seen on www.kayakextreme.net
There’s no possible landing between Thunder Cove and Lissos, some 6km and 1.5 hrs away around Akrotiri Flomes, or ‘Cape Crocodile’. The sea-cliffs here are magnificent, and not a little intimidating – impressive from the passing ferry, and even more so from a kayak floating directly underneath 100m of sheer limestone!
Approaching The Sea Cave
Once safely around the headland we made for the great cave I’ve seen referred to as ‘Elides’ or ‘Dinees’, only accessible of course from the sea. Inhabited by nesting crag martins and pigeons, it measures some 30m deep, and gave us welcome shade on a hot June afternoon. Another stunning place to be in a kayak!
Inside the Cave
The beach at Lissos is set deep in Aghios Kirikos bay, and sadly is tar-polluted. We trod carefully and swam, and after Captain George’s taxi-boat called to collect some ‘day-trippers’, we had the place to ourselves. Tempting though it was to wander around the fascinating remains of Ancient Lissos in the late afternoon, journey’s end was still 2km distant. After half an hour’s steady paddling below sea-cliffs still sizeable, if not as dramatic as previously, we eased into the tiny harbour at Sougia.
Sougia
“Dog days don’t come any better than this,” I remarked to Chausette as we relaxed on the beach, waiting for the ‘Samaria’ ferry to take us back to Paleohora. But Chausette only speaks French, and was in any case fast asleep.
I’m often asked if there are kayak hire facilities, or opportunities for day trips such as this in Paleohora. Unfortunately no, but contact www.seakayakcrete.com who run kayak holidays based in Loutro, further along the coast.
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