Lagadhas village

The names of Kalamiou, Lagadhas and Kitiros will be unfamiliar to many visitors to Paleochora, but these three villages above Voutas, and the nearby landscapes, deserve to be better known.   Here’s a walk of around four hours which links all three, and climbs high enough above the valley to give expansive views over the surrounding countryside.

This walk starts and ends here

There is no bus service to Voutas, so drive, take a taxi (arrange for it to meet you later), or if you’re very energetic, cycle there by mountain bike.  Whichever way you travel, it’s a pleasant journey of 13km through Tsaliana and Kondokinigi.  As you enter Voutas, take a left turn signposted ‘Sklavopoula’;  descend to cross the river, keep right at a road junction, pass the village olive mill, and 100m further on, park opposite the church of Agia Pareskevi where the walk begins.

Walk on along the road, winding high above the river (Pelikaniotikos), for around 15 mins

(1 km), then turn right on a track signed to Agios Spiridon.  This leads through olive groves to the church, not especially interesting, but worth looking inside, and the key is easy to locate if it’s locked.

Immediately before the church gate, take the grassy track right, initially through more olives, then breaking out into open scenery and rising steadily above the valley.  Eventually it meets another track (continue ahead), and a second, joining from the right.  Look out here for a prominent blue-painted arrow, pointing uphill;  blue waymarking continues ahead, but watch out for where, below pine trees, a footpath leaves the track right, passing water cisterns, crosses a small stream and rises to meet a wider track and then a more recently made road.

Stone walls in Kalamiou

Keep left (another arrow indicates the way), and climb up into the village of Kalamiou, now largely uninhabited.  Stonework on many of the deserted buildings is just beautiful, has survived very many years, and will last many more.  The village ‘platea’, with shady plane trees and a spring of cold water, is the perfect place for lunch, after which follow the lane left, out of the ‘platea’ to meet the road to Sklavopoula, and turn downhill out of the village.

Easy walking down the road, surfaced but with virtually no traffic, gives views of several isolated churches, and the high road from Voutas over to Strovles, through the remote village of Archondiko.  Lower down, on a clear day, there’s an unusual view to Gavdos island, some 60 km distant, but seeming much closer.  One km later, outside the second house you pass, is the “Wooden Horse of Lagadhas.”  If alerted by the dogs, Costas will unsaddle the horse, and proudly show you his workshops, for he and his son are craftsmen, producing beautiful mandolins and lutes, as well as a selection of walking sticks, all made by hand from local wood.

"Wooden Horse of Lagadhas."

Shortly after the ‘wooden horse’, turn right up a track which leads to the church of the Metamorphosis, with shade and a splendid view of terraced hillsides across the valley. Keep ahead on the track, which winds round through olive trees, crosses the valley at a small stream, then ascends the ridge to meet another unsurfaced track (to Sklavopoula).  Good views to Lagadhas village and beyond give an excuse to rest awhile after the climb.

Threshing circle above Kitiros

Turn left down the rough track, which will bring you to Agii Pantes church, with an ‘aloni’ (threshing circle) nearby.  At the rear (right) of the church, take the narrow donkey path (blue waymarking again), steeply down into Kitiros. Walk left out of the little village on the road, which twists and turns, with Voutas spread out below.  Look out for the distinctive ‘agave’ plants, which grow up to three metres tall, flower just once after around ten years, and then die.

Giant Agave below Kitiros

This road will join the one you began the walk on, but a ‘short-cut’ (right, blue marked but easily missed,) drops directly to Agia Pareskevi.  Inside are some …. let’s say curious frescos not often seen in  local churches around Paleochora.

Voutas has a couple of simple ‘cafeneia’ where you can enjoy refreshments before the journey back to Paleochora.

Tags: greece, paleochora, paleohora, hania, , holidays, crete, chania

Everyone leaving Paleochora (often sadly, and vowing to return) on the road north towards Kandanos and Chania will pass, quickly and almost unnoticingly, through the area known as Ligia, just 2km outside our village.

Little sign of a village..

There’s not much to see from the road, just some ruined buildings and a glimpse of two small churches, and the most prominent feature is the twin caves left of, and high above the valley, like giant eye-sockets staring with unseeing eyes towards the sea.

Those 'eye sockets' staring down the valley

Ligia derives its name from the ‘ligies’ trees which once grew in abundance here, giving a flexible wood used for making tools and other artifacts.  The two churches indicate a number of people lived in the area at one time ; the newer one on the road up to Azogires is Agios Kosmas O Aitolos, and the lower, close to the river, is  Dodeka Apostoloi (Church of the Twelve Apostles) where there was a cemetery.

Church on the road to Azogires

The road to Chania formerly passed this church too, keeping left (west) of the valley (from where the bridge is now) to cross a higher bridge, and emerging near the turn to Azogires. Villagers from here would walk 5km down the rough track to catch the bus to Chania, first hiding their old boots under bushes or in holes.  Returning some days later, ‘town shoes’ were exchanged for working boots before walking back up to Azogires with their shopping.

Ligia - Note cannonball impressions

Despite passing through Ligia thousands of times over two decades, I’d never climbed up to the caves.  Colin and I rectified that one afternoon last autumn, setting off from the new road bridge, and taking the track alongside the river to the ‘Twelve Apostles’ church.  Above the door is a cross, made from the indentation of cannon balls in the plaster, and above the church are remains of a concrete aqueduct system, constructed in the late 1950s, an initiative by the then Mayor of Paleochora to supply an electrical power plant there, at a time when Athens barely had electricity.  An engraving translates as : “Blessed be the memory of the Saints and Apostles, our helpers in this undertaking.”

Inscription on the aqueduct

The way to the caves isn’t as easy as it looks from below, and once the track runs out, involves crossing rough terrain, fences and a shallow gully, then some scrambling over loose boulders to reach a ramp leading up to the entrance.

Ligia Cave

I doubt whether anyone has been here in recent years, but animal droppings inside, and pottery shards outside the caves confirmed they were used by shepherds to shelter sheep and goats for many hundreds of years.  What appears to be two caves from below is in fact one huge cave, with a quite stunning view from the two “windows”.

The view from the 'unseeing eyes'

Much of the land hereabouts belongs to the Koulieris family, a large and famous family of resistance fighters originally from Chora Sfakion.  Their sheep, having spent the summer at Omalos, were stabled here over winter, along with flocks and herds from other families, where the cave’s position was high enough to act as security against thieves.  Outside the cave was a milking area where cheeses such as graviera, mizithra and athotiros were produced.  Shepherds slept inside the cave on beds made from stones and soil, with mattresses filled with a soft sage-like plant called ‘kalokoimithia’ which means ‘good sleep’, and scattered fresh herbs on the beds when their wives came to visit ……

We spent an absorbing half hour here before, with rain imminent, we made our way back down  the valley, this time thinking it might be easier to follow the riverbed  ….. but it wasn’t.

I must thank Popi Vardoulakis, Tina Koulieris from ‘Christos’ taverna on the east sea-front in Paleochora, and especially Eftihis (‘Lucky’) Koukoutsakis from the Alpha cafenion in Azogires for all their help in writing this article  – ‘efharisto poli’ .

Tags: , greece, hania, crete, holidays, paleohora, chania, paleochora

“Occasionally we have three consecutive days of bad weather, but very rarely four,” Lynne and I used to boast to friends forced to spend winter in the UK.  This January proved us wrong, with eight successive days of rain, grey skies, cold temperatures and strong winds before the sun re-appeared, briefly  – followed by more rain, “heavy at times” as weather forecasters say.  But what was falling as rain in Paleochora was falling as deep snow in the White Mountains, and a drive up to Omalos and Xyloscala gave spectacular views over the Samaria Gorge towards Pachnes, even if further progress  – to Kallergi and the path to Gingilos  – was impossible.

The view over the Samaria Gorge to Pachnes

The return journey to Paleohora (65km/40miles) gave an opportunity to stop in Agia Irini and visit the Figou Gorge.  The start of this circular walk of around 3 hours co-incides, almost, with the descent of Agia Irini Gorge.  A few metres north, take a track leading down to an old stone bridge (built c.1850) over the river.

The old stone bridge

This was the original way to the Omalos plateau ; now it’s part of the E4 long-distance path and used by trekkers as an alternative to the difficult section between Sougia and Agia Roumeli.  Cross the bridge and walk left, uphill, keeping right at a fork  (signed ‘Omalos’) to reach a well-preserved ‘kalderimi’ (an old paved mule trail) climbing pleasantly through a pine forest.

The ‘kalderimi’ gives way to a loose, stony path along a ridge.  As it climbs, note the ancient terracing on the hillsides to the right, and enjoy views left down to Agia Irini village.  The  trail, cairned in places, now bends right, and leads to another stretch of superbly built stone pathway.  The highest point, at almost 900m, is usually a fine place to rest awhile and admire the scenery, but on a mid-afternoon in January it was better to keep moving, heavy boots crunching through  the snow

The Kalderimi take you up above Agia Irini

The Kalderimi from above. Agia Irini far below

The path continues past a water cistern and ruined shepherds’ hut to reach a fork, and a right turn to the south (signposted) into the deep Figou Gorge.  Ahead is the route to Omalos, climbing to meet the main surfaced road.  During the long years of Turkish occupation ( 1669-1898) the Agia Irini gorge and many others offered shelter for women and children, as well as providing hiding places for Cretan rebels.  In 1821 the Jenissary Kaouris entered the gorge to kill women and children concealed there, but was halted by two rebels guarding the entrance.  After a hard-fought battle, one was killed after his gun was destroyed, and the other was suffocated when Turks started a fire at the entrance of the cave he was hiding in.  But the women and children were able to escape through the Figou Gorge to Omalos and were saved.

Follow the sign to the gorge

The path descends steeply, twisting and turning, with views towards the Irini Gorge below.
The cave (Hirotripa) mentioned above is passed (signed), and the remains of buildings which  housed a bandit settlement between 1715 – 1820.  A substantial stone hut, a Wardens’ shelter, with fireplace, table and chairs, and almost hidden in the pine trees, is reminiscent of a Scottish ‘bothy’.  Early morning in summer after spending a night here would be an unforgettable experience.

The Figou Gorge, steep and spectacular

Just below the hut, the Figou Gorge joins with Agia Irini, about a kilometre below the entrance.  Water was cascading down the river in torrents, more than I’ve ever seen  -   “dashing and flashing and splashing …. but always descending …. “ , to move Southey’s words here from the Lodore Falls.  The wooden footbridge built some ten years ago, which saved a difficult river crossing in icy water, was much appreciated, as was the remaining hot coffee in  the flask on reaching the car fifteen minutes later.

EDITOR’S NOTE:  This is Bob’s 30th. article on the Explore! blog for The Paleochora Site. I just want to say thank you to Bob on behalf of all of the regular readers for this great resource.

Tags: holidays, crete, hania, greece, , paleochora, paleohora, chania

The good ship "Elafonisis"

“If you missed this boat, you may never get another one ….”  With apologies to Johnny Duncan and the Bluegrass Boys, who were heading for San Fernando all those years ago. For the past twenty-five years or so, the Gialinakis family have been operating the daily (in summer) ferry service between Paleochora and Elafonisi.  On so many occasions Lynne and I, alone or with friends, have walked along the E4 path from Krios to Elafonisi, where the boat was moored, ready to return us to Paleochora.  And several times the ‘Elafonisos’ carried our bikes there, and we cycled back home inland via Elos, Strovles and Plemeniana.

At the end of October, knowing the boat was nearing ‘retirement’, friends and I drove to Krios beach (cars to be retrieved later), and set off west along the coastal path.

The first part of the walk, around 45 minutes to Vienna beach, is detailed in “Explore!”, November ’09, with a description of the tiny inlet and its history.

Vienna Beach

From here the path, clearly marked, rises steadily, passing right of a distinctive shrine built on a rocky outcrop.  This is to Agios Nikolaus, the patron saint of sailors, and rather fortuitously the ‘Elafonisos’ sailed serenely below us on calm waters.  A stormy sea in January is spectacular from here!

Our ride home passes us en route

Soon the path levels, drops slightly, and crosses an exposed slope where vertigo sufferers may go slowly (or sprint!) the 10m back to more ‘terra firma’, lesser terra on firma ground if you follow me.

The path leads around the bay

The turquoise lagoons and Elafonisi ‘island’ are now in view, as the path rounds the headland to reach the chapel of Agios Ioannis, much restored and re-painted in recent years (and sadly, with vehicle access on a rough track.)  Just 100m inland, among oleander bushes, is a spring of cold water, which tastes rather ‘earthy’ but is quite safe.

From the chapel, the path contours around the hillside, crossing two shallow gullies.  The waymarking is good, but needs to be followed carefully to a rather intimidating descent to a long beach, full of driftwood and other assorted debris, but a good place for a rest and late morning snack.  Crossing to boulders on the far side of the beach, we picked up the path through and occasionally over these, climbed to a prominent E4 marker post, then turned left down a dry watercourse, scrambling over white marble slabs into the riverbed which leads down to the sea.

A breather at the chapel

Although attractive, the little beach here is shallow and prone to spiny sea urchins, and the beautiful Kedrodasos or Cedar Beach is just a few minutes away, where, to move Yeats’ lines  here from Innisfree, there is “water lapping with low sounds by the shore.”  This area of coastal dunes and Juniper trees has been classified as a “priority habitat”, now conserved and protected under a 4-year project (2009-12).  See www.junicoast.gr for more details.

"Kedrodasos" juniper beach

The water is fringed with Elafonisi’s famous pink sands, the reason for which, according to legend, is the appalling event which took place at Easter 1824.  Some 850 Cretan women and children were in hiding on Elafonisi island, to avoid being transported as slaves to Istanbul.  Discovered by Turkish soldiers, they were all massacred  – and the sea still holds traces of their blood.  In actual fact, the colour is due to the millions of fragmented sea shells.

We swam, ate our picnic lunch, and relaxed awhile before continuing on sandy paths through the pine trees, passing several small bays, and crossing huge rock slabs to reach the ‘Elafonisos’ mooring.  More about Elafonisi itself, best visited during the winter, another time.  The ‘Elafonisos’, possibly for the final time, left at 3.30pm, giving us superb views of the walk we have enjoyed on so many occasions.  Apparently both the boat and business are up for sale, and so possibly, and hopefully, the ‘Elafonisos’ may be back with us next summer.  If so, then “may God bless her, and all who sail with her …. ”

Christmas Puzzle

With a 366% increase in entries from last year and with correct entries well into double figures (ahem), there was great excitement in the ‘To Scolio’ cafenion in Anidri when the wonderful Georgia drew the winner …. who was (drum roll, please) ….. Sheila Kouvaritakis.  Sheila wins the €10 voucher to exchange in ‘To Delfini’ bookshop, Paleochora.   Congratulations, and thanks to all other entrants.

Tags: chania, hania, holidays, greece, , paleochora, paleohora, crete

Paleochora Christmas Puzzle 2011

The White Mountains of Crete, the nearest range to Paleochora,  cover an area of 960 sq. km, and encompass more than twenty summits above 2000m, that’s over 6,560 ft for veteran UK mountaineers like myself. With few paths through the central massif, or Madares, this can be a dangerous and perplexing place to navigate through, and the perfect setting for this year’s Christmas puzzle.

One route to PACHNES, the highest peak at 2453m, is from Omalos, below TOURLI to the Kallergi Refuge, then over PSARI, MAVRI and MELINDAOU, with views across to AXES and VIKOS, and on to the shepherds’ pastures at Katsiveli, an idyllic setting overlooked by MODAKI and KEFALAS. The descent from Pachnes passes below evil-looking TROCHARIS and KAKOVOLI to Anopolis.

East of Katsiveli the difficult E4 path to Askifou runs under AGHIO PNEVMA, GHRIAS SOROS, KORDHA and KASTRO, while another trail heads north below ORNIO and SPATHI.

GINGILOS is probably the most frequently climbed summit, with nearby VOLAKIAS and PSILAFI sometimes added to the day.

The impressive peak seen from the ‘Samaria’ ferry , often mistaken for Pachnes, is in fact ZARANOKEFALA, with a subsidiary spur of KOUTSAKAS.

How to enter:

Nineteen of the 22 mountains in block capitals can be found in the word square (vertically, horizontally, diagonally, forwards or backwards.) Which three are missing? A voucher for €10, to exchange at ‘To Delfini’ bookshop, for the first correct answer opened after the closing date of December 28th.

Barry says: “Save the image to your computer and print it off if you wish to (saves drawing on your computer screen…did I make that joke last year?).  In windows, right click the mouse and chose ‘Save image as…’  If you are unfortunate enough to own a Mac, then you will need to consult your instruction manual.”

All photos by Colin Whiteman during a 4-day trek from Theriso to Agia Roumeli. Good Luck & A Happy Christmas !

Tags: hania, , holidays, chania, paleohora, crete, greece, paleochora

Baywatch in Paleochora

How many different beaches and bays are there between Krios, 8km west of Paleochora, and the town itself? No idea? Neither have I, although the number must run well into double figures. Many can be seen and easily reached from the “corniche” road running along the coast to Koundoura, but others are best viewed and accessed from the sea, and where better than from a kayak, where – as the (very) old song goes – “you’re the skipper and crew.”

Setting off from Krios Beach

Pamela Anderson being busy that September afternoon, Rick joined me for a “baywatch” kayak trip, paddling east from Krios, and hoping to reach the stony beach of Chalikia if the seas off the Paleochora promontory remained calm enough for us to pass between there and the small offshore island.

I was the 'old salt' today!

We left Krios’ shingle beach heading into a slight swell and headwind, which at least kept the temperature down. On a summer’s day it’s hard to imagine winter storms and high seas which wash salt water onto the rocky shore. In early summer the rock pools dry out, leaving crusty high-quality sea-salt (on sale by a roadside entrepreneur in Koundoura at €3 per kilo.)

We edged out to sea, disturbing a cormorant which flapped off noisily. To our left (port!), and almost hidden, lay the tiny sheltered harbour of Koundoura with its colourful fishing boats. Several unnamed shingle beaches came and went before we rounded Cape Plakaki, and turned into the large bay of Grammeno, with shallow water, sandy beach, and a good place to go ashore and stretch our legs.

The harbour at Kondoura

Ashore at Grammeno

The west-facing beach of Grammeno is around 100m away from the east-facing, but much longer by kayak around the rocky headland of Cape Grammeno. If you know where to look on the SW tip of the peninsula, there’s a small enclosed lake with a collapsed cave, connected to the sea by an underwater passage. Strong swimmers can take a face-mask, deep breath, and head, literally, for the light at the end of the tunnel.

Many of the beaches between Grammeno and Paleochora’s main beach, Pachia Ammos, have names. The first, Azzurro beach, was always called ‘Umprella Beach’ by Lynne and I because of the “free umprellas” available. Next comes Plakaki, then Karavopetra, translated as “stone prow” on account of the huge rock at the water’s edge. We landed again here, for a late lunch and swim, where the water shelves quickly into crystal-clear depths.

Karavopetra Beach

We paddled past, in quick succession, Trochalou, Psilos Volakas (always known as “jumping rock beach” for obvious reasons, if you’re brave enough), and Kalamia beaches, all just a stone’s throw from the road, and virtually empty, even in the heat of late summer.

Kalamia & Psilos Volakas beaches from the Voutas road

But then Limnaki with its shallow lagoon, and the “sandy beach” of Pachia Ammos, one of the best in Crete, were busier, but not crowded, with sun-beds and parasols along most of the sea-front.

Pachia Ammos ('sandy') Beach

So far we had been kayaking in the lee, sheltered from a north wind. With the wind increasing behind us we passed easily below Paleochora’s soccer ‘stadium’, as close as any to the sea, into which footballs inevitably finish up. How are they retrieved I’ve often wondered ? Maybe, as once at my home team, Shrewsbury Town AFC, someone waits in a boat to collect them. Visiting defenders regularly cleared the ball over the Gay Meadow stands into the River Severn, where a local boatman collected them – half-a crown for each one returned, and whenever we played Grimsby he made a small fortune.

The gap between the promontory and island with lighthouse is surprisingly shallow, and we took care not to “bottom” on any sharp rocks just below the surface. The easy option, as we turned into the wind, was to paddle into the Marina and shelter, but we continued valiantly through now choppy waters, arms working hard to make progress north to the Skala jetty.

And so to the final beach of our afternoon expedition, Chalikia or Paleochora’s “stony beach”, where, once ashore, the kayaks on dry land and a change of clothes later, we relaxed at ‘Votsala’ cafe and had the best fresh orange juice I’ve enjoyed in a long time.

Tags: , crete, holidays, paleohora, greece, hania, chania, paleochora

Plemeniana

It’s just over 2km from the pretty village of Plemeniana to the small town of Kandanos …. but not by the way I’m going to take you, which is a walk of up to three hours and around 10 km.

This fits in with the bus timetables, and makes a pleasant autumn afternoon stroll. So, take the midday Chania bus from Paleochora, and jump off in the centre of Plemeniana fifteen minutes later. Walk down left on a passage between houses, past an apple tree and water source, across a bridge over the shallow River Kakodikianos, and turn left to reach the taverna ‘O Mylos’.

That’s far enough, time for “a little something” , with apologies to readers unfamiliar with Pooh stories. After a coffee, cold drink or lunchtime snack, continue along the main road (direction of Elos) for 200m, and turn right into and through the little village of Teredhiana. The road swings left and then right, rising gradually, then levels out.

Anticipating the walk over a coffee at 'O Mylos'

The road then becomes a rough track between olive, oak, fig and an occasional walnut tree. Ignore any side turns, to reach a distinctive fork where the right branch dips towards tall eucalyptus trees. Keep left here, below vineyards, to cross a riverbed (shallow ford here in winter) under more eucalyptus.

At the next junction, after more vines, turn left on the lesser track, climbing steadily. Pass by an orchard, with (in season) plums, persimmon, and two types of apple grafted on to a single tree, red and green, both very tasty even if not ‘delicious’. Now the track, becoming decidedly ” less travelled by “, climbs out of the valley by two twisting, ‘hairpin’ bends.

” It has to be going somewhere! ” said Lynne when we first came here a couple of years ago.

The ridge above, when reached, opens up views especially to the west, where the villages of Dris and Aligi lie hidden in folds of hills. At a prominent sandstone outcrop, pause to look back south, down the valley towards the sea.

Soon afterwards a wider track is reached, where you turn left. Directly ahead, distantly, is the Spina Gorge (ref. ‘Explore’, November 2010), right of the unsightly quarry, and below left of three recently erected wind turbines. Easy walking now, heading north alongside olive groves. A steep-sided ravine is below left, and later a more shallow olive tree filled gorge appears below right, as the track climbs to almost 500m and rounds the head of the valley.

You won't go hungry on this walk

Pass left of a concrete building as the track descends, and at a junction, near a lonesome pine tree, take the left fork. After passing a house right, the track becomes surfaced, with a view to Kandanos, dominated by its cathedral, far below. You might hear traffic from the main road, and at the next junction go right, away from it, and follow the twists and turns of the quieter road down into Trachiniakos.

Afternoon siesta near Trachiniakos

Walk through the village, fertile and well-irrigated by two streams, to reach the wayside church and bell-tower of Agios Ioannis, which has well-preserved frescos. 100m beyond here, turn left over a bridge (the road ahead gives a quick return to Kandanos, 10 mins away).

Agios Ioannis Church

There’s a worthwhile diversion here : at the far side of the bridge, take a path down right into the riverbed, cross the  stream, and follow the river up below plane and chestnut trees (with a fence on right) to the “hidden” church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia). It’s less than five minutes away, not to be missed, and if time allows, a place to rest and relax for a while.

'Hidden' Church of The Virgin Mary

Return to the bridge and turn right, along a winding lane passing through Xatzoudhiana, a pretty, typically Cretan rural village. Re-crossing the stream, the road rises to reach a final junction where you turn left (though there’s a water tap and good view of Kandanos .

Mamas church, a 200m diversion). At the outskirts of Kandanos, look out for a red diamond waymarker post, and go right on the path, through a ‘park’ and children’s playground, climbing up to the main road, across which is a small ‘platea’ with cafes. The 4.00pm Chania bus to Paleohora passes through Kandanos around 5.20pm, and if your timing’s good, you can enjoy coffee and cakes (‘galaktoboureko’ strongly recommended) before the return journey.

Afternoon tea whilst waiting for the bus

Walk Update:

A Bridge not too Far (July 2009) Please note that the route as described between Plemeniana and the main Chania road is now totally overgrown and practically impassable.

Tags: greece, chania, crete, , paleochora, paleohora, hania, holidays

The walk starts here...

One definition of ‘explore’ is “to search or travel through for the purpose of discovery.” Another, more famous, though less grammatically correct, one  is “to boldly go.” Earlier this year, John, Phil and I boldly went to explore and make possibly the first ever descent of the Ropanas Ravine. It’s one of the longest valleys in the Paleochora area, and follows the Ropanas ‘potamos’ or river, which drops 7 km and around 500m from the tiny village of Vathyrema to the sea. But I doubt if many seasoned visitors, or keen local walkers, have even heard of it.

If you drive from Paleochora through Koundoura and up to Sklavopoula, the signed turning to Vathyrema is on the left after 16km, and about 1.5 km before reaching the main village. We left a car here, in case of retreat, having already left a car at the end of the ravine, in case of success.

...and ends here!

The road led us pleasantly along, then over a ridge to the houses of Vathyrema, tucked below the track, and then swung north, contouring around to the head of a steep-sided valley. We almost missed the tiny church of Agios Giorgos, hidden in the trees below, and close to a spring of cold water . Now heading SW, we remarked how tranquil and peaceful it all seemed, totally idyllic. Then ” Pou pate? “ boomed a voice from olive trees far below us. ” Where are you going? This is not the way to Elafonisi !” Holding a conversation over half a kilometre isn’t easy, so we continued down (keeping sharp left at a turn) to where the voice and his donkey were collecting olives, and explained that we were trying to follow the valley down to the sea. “Ah,” he told us, “then you’ll come to the beach near a white villa ,” – so perhaps it wouldn’t be a ‘first descent’ after all.

The valley widens...

Vathyrema, seen better from here, once had thirty occupants, our new friend told us, but now only four people live there, and it was a hard life. As elsewhere, the olive harvest had been affected by the ‘dakos’ worm, so the quality of oil was poor, and it was hardly worth collecting them.

We looked carefully for an entrance into the gorge itself. Our first attempt, leaving the track too soon, took us only into thick impenetrable undergrowth, and further progress was impossible. The correct way, from where the track appears to end (at beehives, July ’11) is to go uphill for 100m, curving left and through a wire gate, towards sheep feeding troughs. Then descend steeply to the left, keeping right of a wire fence on steep but open ground, (stick or walking pole useful) into the riverbed.

Now at 300m above sea level, the way ahead is clear. As the King advised Alice (in Wonderland) : “Go on till you come to the end, then stop.” After a while a side valley joins from the right (NW) descending from Maniatiana, when the valley becomes wider – then narrows again, often between large boulders.

...and then narrows

Interesting scenery changes around every twist and turn.

Many years ago, Lord Byron, in ‘Don Juan’, musing … “dreamed that Greece might yet be free …” He was alluding to the Turkish occupation, but these days the reference might well be to litter. For lower down the valley, rubbish – and plastic in particular – has blown or washed down into the gorge from the municipal Refuse Site above, becoming trapped on trees, rocks and the occasional fence, most unsightly for half a kilometre or so

Another lesser ravine meets the main valley, which then narrows, with some easy scrambling down over boulders.

Phil replaces a loose boulder

Two fences must be negotiated (look for the wires to open and close after you ), after which the valley widens again, with the sea eventually in view. A final ‘gate’, beyond which is a rough track – and Krios beach is there in front of you.

Krios Beach

In high summer there’s a ‘cantina’ for well-earned drinks and snacks, with sun-beds & parasols for relaxation after a swim, equally well-deserved. A walk along the shore, and an easy climb over rocks leads to a smaller and more secluded beach, sheltered from any west winds.

We took around four hours from leaving the car to reaching the sea. The walk, of around 10 km, is feasible without cars by taking an early morning taxi to the Vathyrema turning, and returning to Paleochora by the bus which leaves Krios (at the junction to the beach, 1km from the cantina) around 2.40pm.

Lynne

Lynne, my lovely wife and best friend for over 24 years, passed away in Chania hospital on the  12th June, never waking from the coma after a severe cerebral haemorrhage on 24th March.

Lynne loved exploring in SW Crete, and before Anavasi maps and Google Earth made things easier, we spent hundreds of days together following footpaths, tracks and mule trails, attempting to link villages and valleys, or sometimes just simply to see where they went to.  Often they led nowhere, ending in olive groves where we had a picnic and retraced our steps, but many of our explorations resulted in walks which have given pleasure to thousands of people through our two books, and via the ‘Explore!’ series.

Lynne exploring the gorge between Kakopetros and Zymbragou, one of her discoveries.

The words of T.S.Eliot seem appropriate :
” We shall not cease from exploration ;  and the end of all our exploration will be to arrive where we started, and know the place for the first time. “

Tags: chania, hania, holidays, paleochora, greece, crete, , paleohora