{"id":746,"date":"2013-02-10T15:05:05","date_gmt":"2013-02-10T12:05:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=746"},"modified":"2022-10-08T17:11:14","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T14:11:14","slug":"a-whale-of-a-kayak-trip","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/a-whale-of-a-kayak-trip\/","title":{"rendered":"A Whale of a Kayak Trip"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>With a crocodile close to the south coast (see &#8216;Explore!&#8217; February 2010), and a whale lurking off the north coast,\u00a0 Crete is not exactly the safest place in the world for sea-kayaking.\u00a0 You didn&#8217;t know about the whale?\u00a0 Well, once upon a time, O best beloved, and long, long ago, this enormous sea-monster was heading towards Crete, intent on swallowing the island whole.\u00a0 Fortuitously, and only just in time, the Greek gods spotted it, and instantly turned it into stone, when it became the island of Ag Theodorou,\u00a0 just offshore from Platanias, and 7 km WNW of Chania.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_747\" style=\"width: 639px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-747\" class=\"size-full wp-image-747\" title=\"paleochora explore kayak\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-1.jpg\" alt=\"The island from the starting point\" width=\"639\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-1.jpg 639w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-1-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 639px) 100vw, 639px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-747\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whale Ho!<\/p><div class=\"raaxb69f0f98638d1a\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.raaxb69f0f98638d1a {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.raaxb69f0f98638d1a {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.raaxb69f0f98638d1a {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.raaxb69f0f98638d1a {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.raaxb69f0f98638d1a {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.raaxb69f0f98638d1a {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n<\/div>\n<p>We chose one of Crete&#8217;s 300 sunny days a year\u00a0 &#8211; this one at the very end of November &#8211;\u00a0 to circumnavigate the islands by kayak.\u00a0 Plural here, because there are two, the smaller rocky islet of Ag Theodoropoula being largely hidden from the coast.\u00a0 Launching from Platanias, we set off on the 1.8km crossing to the island on the calmest sea imaginable.\u00a0 Still waters usually run deep, but the sea bed was visible below us all the way over, a leisurely half hour paddle.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_748\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-748\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-748\" title=\"paleochora explore photo\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-2-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-2-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-2.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-748\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bob increases to &#8216;ramming speed&#8217;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In 1930 Ag Theodorou was designated a wildlife sanctuary, and\u00a0 home to the famous wild goats or &#8220;kri-kri&#8221; ; in 1935 one male and two females were brought from the Samaria Gorge and released here, and have since procreated, the herd now around eighty.\u00a0 It&#8217;s also the habitat of several raptors, safe from Greek hunters.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_749\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-749\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-749\" title=\"paleochora images\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-3-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-3-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-3.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-749\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A beautiful calm sea<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Like most of Crete the island has a long history.\u00a0 Remains found in the enormous cave suggest it was a site for Minoan worship ; centuries later (in 1583) the Venetians turned the island into a fortress against the threat of piracy and Turkish invasion (and similar to Gramvousa island, it held out against the Turks long after the Cretan mainland had fallen.)\u00a0 Access is (officially) prohibited except on the Saint&#8217;s Day in June, and even then, on paths limited from the shore up to the church.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_750\" style=\"width: 639px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-750\" title=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"639\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-4.jpg 639w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-4-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 639px) 100vw, 639px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-750\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">If you can read this..you are too close!<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Nearing the small beach and jetty, we tried to make out the words on a rusting notice, and when 50m away, could decipher them :\u00a0 &#8220;No approaching to 100m from the beach.&#8221;\u00a0 But we made a brief landfall, stretched legs, then set off around the SW tip of the island, below the huge cave which is the eye of the whale from some aspects.\u00a0 Cliffs fall sheer into the sea from the island&#8217;s high point of 165m, with cormorants nesting in crevices and small ledges.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_751\" style=\"width: 383px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-6.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-751\" class=\" wp-image-751 \" title=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"383\" height=\"287\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-6.jpg 639w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-6-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 383px) 100vw, 383px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-751\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Resting, &#8221; by still waters &#8230;&#8230; &#8220;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The strait between the two islands is a narrow channel\u00a0 measuring c.30m across. We paddled\u00a0 carefully through, watchful for sharp rocks below us either side, then anti-clockwise around Theodoropoula, where a landing looks almost impossible.\u00a0 To our north lay nothing but open sea until Athens, some 250km distant, reminding me of the Breton fishermen&#8217;s prayer :<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;O Lord, the sea is so great, and my boat is so small.&#8221;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_752\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-752\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-752\" title=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-5-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Through the strait ... &quot;and my boat is so small.&quot;\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-5-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-5.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-752\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Through the strait &#8230; &#8220;and my boat is so small.&#8221;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Through the strait again, then keeping close to the north and south-east cliffs, watching for &#8216;kri-kri&#8217;\u00a0 on the rocks above us, and spotting three males, larger than imagined, looking down on us as we looked up at them.\u00a0 An hour or so and 5km after leaving it, we were back at the beach, this time for a picnic lunch and rest in the sunshine.\u00a0 But, as we used to sing in school assemblies years ago :\u00a0 &#8221; Not for ever by still waters, would we idly rest and stay &#8230;&#8221;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_753\" style=\"width: 511px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-7.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-753\" class=\" wp-image-753 \" title=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"511\" height=\"382\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-7.jpg 639w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/Island-kayak-7-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 511px) 100vw, 511px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-753\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The island from Kato Galatas<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Phil had driven from Platanias to the small harbour at Kato Galatas, where we had arranged to end our voyage.\u00a0 Ag Theodorou receded behind us on our 4km return to the mainland, leaving us with memories of a fine day, and the thought that, to misquote Psalm 107 :<\/p>\n<p>&#8221; They that go down to the sea in kayaks, that go paddling in great waters ;<\/p>\n<p>these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. &#8220;<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t 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&#8216;Explore!&#8217; February 2010), and a whale lurking off the north coast,\u00a0 Crete is not exactly the safest place in the world for sea-kayaking.\u00a0 You didn&#8217;t know about the whale?\u00a0 Well, once upon a time, O best beloved, and long, long ago, this enormous sea-monster was heading &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/a-whale-of-a-kayak-trip\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":3029,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-746","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A Whale of a Kayak Trip<\/title>\n<meta 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