{"id":637,"date":"2012-07-13T13:33:44","date_gmt":"2012-07-13T10:33:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=637"},"modified":"2022-10-08T17:15:15","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T14:15:15","slug":"through-the-topolia-gorge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/through-the-topolia-gorge\/","title":{"rendered":"Through the Topolia Gorge"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-639\" title=\"Topalia Gorge. The Paleochora Site\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"639\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-2.jpg 639w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-2-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 639px) 100vw, 639px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Around fifteen years ago, Lynne and I found a way from Topolia village down to the River Tiflos, and followed the valley south through the narrow gorge to Katsomatados.\u00a0 It was awful, trying to work our way through debris discarded from the road above, including rusting machinery, plastic sheeting and rotting animal carcasses.\u00a0 We never returned.<\/p><div class=\"mlfmn69e3c820bde78\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.mlfmn69e3c820bde78 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.mlfmn69e3c820bde78 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.mlfmn69e3c820bde78 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.mlfmn69e3c820bde78 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.mlfmn69e3c820bde78 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.mlfmn69e3c820bde78 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<p>Then last winter, I heard that a path has been waymarked through the gorge, starting from\u00a0 the Panorama taverna a little further through Katsomatados on the main road towards Topolia.\u00a0 And so there is. And whilst not entirely pristine, the walk through the gorge of around 2km each way, or a longer route described below, added to the scenic drive there and back from Paleochora, makes for an enjoyable day&#8217;s exploring.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-640\" title=\"Toplia gorge, near paleochora\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-1-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Toplia gorge, near paleochora\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-1-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-1.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s just 30km, around a 45 minute journey to the start of the walk, first north to Plemeniana then through Dris, Aligi and Strovles, and down the valley to Katsomatados to park at the Panorama taverna.\u00a0 Coffee or cold drinks first, and a chance for the owner, Manolis Motakis or his wife to tell you more about the walk or others in the area, for they know every footpath.\u00a0 Then down the steps below the cafe, through a small gate, and follow the arrows between olive trees to meet a wide path leading into the gorge.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_643\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-643\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-643\" title=\"Topalia gorge trees\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-3-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-3-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-3.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-643\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Autumn colours and shade under plane trees<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Threading a way below and between boulders, the path winds gradually downhill.\u00a0 Any water in the higher reaches usually disappears underground later, where the path crosses to the east side of the river.\u00a0 Some rusting debris still remains, including, rather incongruously, a roadsign to the monastery at Chrisoskalitisa, but this does not detract from the beauty of the gorge, which, on a recent descent, was full of serenity, bright oleanders and early-morning birdsong.<br \/>\nOccasional cairns are largely unnecessary except towards the end, where the path has become overgrown in parts.<\/p>\n<p>After an hour or so the gorge widens, with shady plane trees providing ideal picnic spots.\u00a0 In the searing heat of summer, it&#8217;s advisable to rest here awhile then walk back up the gorge. For the longer walk (a further 5 km), cross to the W bank, climbing out of the riverbed to a concrete water tank and goats&#8217; feeding area.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_645\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-645\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-645\" title=\"Lunch time!\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-4-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-4-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-4.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-645\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lunch time!<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Pass through a wire gate, and head uphill on a rough track,\u00a0 keeping left at the first main junction, and right at the second.\u00a0 This should bring you to a concrete-surfaced road leading up to the cemetery and church of Agia Evangelistra with its imposing bell-tower.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_644\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-644\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-644\" title=\"Agia Evangelistra church, Topolia\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-5-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-5-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-5.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-644\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agia Evangelistra church, Topolia<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Walk on up into Topolia, meeting the main road opposite the village bakery.\u00a0 Although not a cafe, you can sit outside with cold drinks and some of the cheese &amp; spinach &#8216;kalitsounia&#8217; for which the bakery is famous.\u00a0 Situated 275m above sea-level, Topolia is a typically charming Cretan village, full of flowers and white houses tumbling down from the hillsides above.\u00a0 Walk south, passing a small cafenion, and leaving the village, below the large church of Agii Pantes.<\/p>\n<p>Soon the Topolia Gorge is far below you, with steep hillsides falling around 600m from Leventies summit, and viewing areas allowing a closer look down to where you walked through earlier.\u00a0 This area has happily recovered from a fierce fire which caused much destruction in 2002.\u00a0 Soon you reach the tunnel, completed in 1926 after ten years of hard, mainly manual labour.\u00a0 Although only 100m long, now with lights, it&#8217;s narrow and busy in summer and some may find it disconcerting.\u00a0 Take a torch to warn oncoming traffic, or hitch a lift through with a car waiting at the traffic lights.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_646\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-6.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-646\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-646\" title=\"A 100 metre sprint!\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-6-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-6-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-6.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-646\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 100 metre sprint!<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Some 400m from the tunnel exit, steps lead up to the deep cave which holds the tiny church of Agia Sofia.\u00a0 Inhabited in Neolithic times, around 6000BC, and with many legends, the cave has impressive stalagmites and stalactites, the climb is well worthwhile, and the view from the entrance is stunning.\u00a0 Remember to take a torch to explore the darker recesses.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_647\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-7.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-647\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-647\" title=\"Inside Agia Sofia cave\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-7-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-7-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-7.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-647\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside Agia Sofia cave<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_648\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-8.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-648\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-648\" title=\"A stunning view from the cave\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-8-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-8-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Topolia-8.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-648\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stunning view from the cave<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Descend a little from the cave and look to the right for a footpath, not too obvious, but marked with blue paint, and right of a new, wider track.\u00a0 This leads easily around the hillside, taking you back to the road at the Panorama taverna.\u00a0 A superb walk for only 7 km.\u00a0 Enjoy!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul {\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t margin:0px auto !important;text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li 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