{"id":290,"date":"2011-01-31T16:21:25","date_gmt":"2011-01-31T13:21:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=290"},"modified":"2022-10-08T17:23:14","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T14:23:14","slug":"ancient-yrtakina","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/ancient-yrtakina\/","title":{"rendered":"Ancient Yrtakina"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>High in the hills above Paleohora, just 9 km away as the eagle flies, but twice that and half an hour&#8217;s drive through Azogires and Strati to Temenia, is the site of Ancient Yrtakina.\u00a0 Very little has been written about Yrtakina, and much of the following derives from two visits there with our friend the late Tony Fennymore, and his notes to the site kindly made available by his partner Ann.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-291 aligncenter\" title=\"yrtakina-sign\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-sign-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"yrtakina-sign\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-sign-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-sign.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p><div class=\"onwnz69f9affe7b155\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.onwnz69f9affe7b155 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.onwnz69f9affe7b155 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.onwnz69f9affe7b155 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.onwnz69f9affe7b155 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.onwnz69f9affe7b155 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.onwnz69f9affe7b155 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<p>Yrtakina is thought to have been an ancient city of the Hellenistic era, dating from around\u00a0 323 BC, and the capital city of the Achaeans of West Crete.\u00a0 Situated at c.900 metres above sea level on a rocky hill called Kastri, its fortress-like position encircled by two &#8216;Cyclopian&#8217; defensive walls gave security in troubled times.\u00a0 In peaceful periods Yrtakina formed an economic alliance with the neighbouring cities of Elyros, Syia, Tarra, Lissos and Pikilassos (the Confederation of Oreii, 300 BC), and had its own currency.<\/p>\n<p>In 1938-39 excavations revealed a temple from the 4th Cent. BC, dedicated to the God Pan, the protector of shepherds and flocks.\u00a0 A statue of Pan, together with a carved gravestone, is now exhibited in Chania&#8217;s Archeological Museum.<\/p>\n<p>A short walk up to, and an exploration of the site makes an interesting day out from Paleohora.\u00a0 Drive to the outskirts of Temenia, turn right towards Maza and Sougia, and park where a sign indicates &#8216;Ancient Hyrtakina&#8217;, with a track off right.\u00a0 This lane also leads to the exquisitely beautiful 13th century church of Christ the Saviour, shaded by trees, and not to be missed.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-292 aligncenter\" title=\"yrtakina-church\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-church-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"yrtakina-church\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-church-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-church.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Now the climbing begins, with 2km\/40 mins steadily uphill on a winding track through centuries-old terracing and ever-widening landscapes.\u00a0 The White Mountains peaks of Gingilos and Volakias dominate the view eastwards, with the sea at Sougia over 2000m below.\u00a0 The deep gash of the Agia Irini Gorge is prominent, and the villages of Koustoyerako, Rodovani, and Kamaria.<\/p>\n<p>The track ends at a large boulder of fluted limestone, with a final sign confirming you have reached the site.\u00a0 After that\u00a0 &#8211;\u00a0 nothing!\u00a0 Apart from a line of red-painted arrows and dots which, followed carefully, will lead you through the site (via a wire fence) to the radio and other masts on the eastern escarpment.<\/p>\n<p>A word of warning here : make a note of where you entered the site &#8211; you need to return to the same point.\u00a0 And don&#8217;t venture further if alone or in mist\/low cloud\u00a0 &#8211; the &#8216;city&#8217; covers a wide area which can be confusingly similar, and it&#8217;s easy to become disorientated.<\/p>\n<p>Wander where you will, although the waymarking will lead past remains of former dwellings, cultivated areas, a well, possible burial tombs, and on to the site of the temple, not far from the masts.\u00a0 If you climb up to the latter, beware of deep and dangerous fissures in the limestone.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-293 aligncenter\" title=\"yrtakina-walls-1\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-walls-1-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"yrtakina-walls-1\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-walls-1-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-walls-1.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The original entrance to Yrtakina, Tony showed us, was up the gentler and easily defended slopes to the SE, where remains of a &#8216;gatehouse&#8217; still exist.\u00a0 The best examples of the massive walls are to the SW.\u00a0 To the steep north and precipitous east sides, the stronghold was virtually impregnable, but of course everywhere was vulnerable to attack, and Yrtakina was eventually destroyed, probably by the warring Dorian tribes, possibly by the Romans during the invasion and subsequent subjugation of Crete in 69-67 BC.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-294 aligncenter\" title=\"yrtakina-walls-2\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-walls-2-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"yrtakina-walls-2\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-walls-2-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-walls-2.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Enjoy the panorama towards the south coast, where the long and winding road to Prodromi<br \/>\nand on through Anidri is an alternative and adventurous way back to Paleohora, also in view.\u00a0 And later, maybe sitting outside the &#8220;Skala&#8221;, or strolling along the sea-front, gaze up at Yrtakina, try to imagine life there over two thousand years ago, and reflect on a day&#8217;s exploring well-spent.<br \/>\nFootnote<br \/>\nTony&#8217;s unique book\u00a0 &#8211; &#8220;Fenny&#8217;s Chania&#8221; &#8211; a guided walking tour of the town, is still available from several outlets there, or direct from the UK.\u00a0 See <a href=\"http:\/\/fennyscrete.com\">www.fennyscrete.com<\/a> for details.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul 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href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/share?status=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/290&text=Ancient Yrtakina\"  onclick=\"javascript:void window.open('https:\/\/twitter.com\/share?status=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/290&text=Ancient Yrtakina','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -30px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical290\" href=\"http:\/\/www.pinterest.com\/pin\/create\/button\/?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/290&media=https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/01\/yrtakina-church-224x300-1.jpg&description=Ancient Yrtakina\"  onclick=\"javascript:void 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href=\"http:\/\/n4g.com\/tips?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/290&title=Ancient Yrtakina\"  onclick=\"javascript:void window.open('http:\/\/n4g.com\/tips?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/290&title=Ancient Yrtakina','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -510px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"clear\"><\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>High in the hills above Paleohora, just 9 km away as the eagle flies, but twice that and half an hour&#8217;s drive through Azogires and Strati to Temenia, is the site of Ancient Yrtakina.\u00a0 Very little has been written about Yrtakina, and much of the following derives from two visits there with our friend the &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/ancient-yrtakina\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":3064,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-290","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Ancient Yrtakina<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/ancient-yrtakina\/\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Barry Rodgers\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. 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