{"id":2543,"date":"2021-10-29T16:42:27","date_gmt":"2021-10-29T13:42:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=2543"},"modified":"2022-10-08T15:13:20","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T12:13:20","slug":"a-walk-to-koustoyerako-and-livadas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/a-walk-to-koustoyerako-and-livadas\/","title":{"rendered":"A Walk to Koustoyerako and Livadas"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>We&#8217;ve been to the mountain village of Koustoyerako before on our Explore ! adventures, from Agios Theodoros via Agia Ekaterini chapel (ref. Archives July 2014), from Omalos via Linoseli and Achlada (November 2017) and a third time from the village to descend the Keratidias Gorge to the coast, and along the E4 path to Sougia (February 2017).&nbsp; All three are serious expeditions, but here&#8217;s an easier walk up to Koustoyerako, descending to Livadas on a little-used path, and passing several small churches in an area steeped in history.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-....jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2552\" width=\"408\" height=\"307\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-1536x1153.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-2048x1537.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/This-way-...-750x563.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 408px) 100vw, 408px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Start from the foot of the Agia Irini Gorge, 5km north of Sougia (parking space below the Oasis taverna.)&nbsp; Without a car, there are taxis and an occasional mini-bus service from Sougia.<\/p><div class=\"lpkqq69e41b3154ea7\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.lpkqq69e41b3154ea7 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.lpkqq69e41b3154ea7 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.lpkqq69e41b3154ea7 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.lpkqq69e41b3154ea7 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.lpkqq69e41b3154ea7 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.lpkqq69e41b3154ea7 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n\n\n\n<p>The walk is circular, around 7km, with no difficulties except a steady climb of 400m into Koustoyerako ; allow three hours (walking time) although with so much to see, it could fill almost a full day, especially if the village cafe is open.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>From the gorge exit, and the cafe entrance, follow the track as it winds upwards ; there are several side turnings, but always keep to the main &#8216;road&#8217;, looking for tyre marks and occasional concrete sections (the current Anavasi map may help.)&nbsp; Views unfold as you climb higher, across to the gorge descending from Prines (difficult, ropes required), and the popular Agia Irini Gorge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Eventually, on reaching a 4-way \u201ccross-tracks\u201d, take the one rising SE, which, still climbing steadily, will bring you into Koustoyerako.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But first, before reaching the &#8216;platea&#8217;, turn left (east) for just 200m to the Koutsounaria spring of clear cold water, the water source for the village.&nbsp; Steps above lead to the delightful small church of Agia Marina, and from hereabouts, the best views over the small village.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2547\" width=\"467\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-2048x1537.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Small-church-750x563.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2550\" width=\"547\" height=\"409\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-1024x766.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-768x575.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-1536x1149.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-2048x1532.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/View-of-village-750x561.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 547px) 100vw, 547px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Then to the cafe, hopefully open, where Maria and Iannis offer refreshments, simple snacks, and a panorama view from their terrace.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2551\" width=\"486\" height=\"365\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-cafe-750x563.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 486px) 100vw, 486px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The platea is looked down on from the formidable statue of Giorgos Kandanoleon, leader of a doomed and unsuccessful revolt against the Venetian occupation in 1527, which resulted in the destruction of the village.&nbsp; Later uprisings against the tyrannical Turkish rule brought further destruction of the village, notably in 1821.&nbsp; But the most dramatic events in the history of Koustoyerako came in the autumn of 1943 during the Nazi occupation of Crete &#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2544\" width=\"331\" height=\"441\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-1537x2048.jpg 1537w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-750x1000.jpg 750w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Kandanoleon-scaled.jpg 1921w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 331px) 100vw, 331px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>statue of Giorgos Kandanoleon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Following a drop of arms\/ammunition by Allied planes at Achlada, high above Koustoyerako,&nbsp; German troops, on the 25<sup>th<\/sup> September 1943, entered the village, which the men had deserted, and rounded up all the women and children in the village square.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; \u201c They lined them all up, and, as they refused to speak, prepared to execute the lot.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; But, before they could press the trigger of their heavy machine-gun, ten Germans fell<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; dead.&nbsp; For some of the village men \u2013 about ten \u2013 had taken up position along the top of a<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; sheer cliff above the village, from where they could watch every detail, and, at just the<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;right moment, had opened fire.&nbsp; Not a bullet went wide.&nbsp; Terrified, the Germans took to<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; their heels \u2026..\u201d&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <\/em>George Psychoundakis&nbsp;&nbsp; \u201cThe Cretan Runner\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Retribution was swift and brutal.&nbsp; In the following week many village men \u2013 and women &#8211; were executed, houses ransacked and burned, and Koustoyerako was once again destroyed, along with the nearby villages of Livadas and Moni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>From the platea, overlooked by Ochra Crag, from where the famous shots were fired, walk out along the main road.&nbsp; There are several memorials here, the most poignant a plaque to local heroines executed by German firing squad \u2026.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2553\" width=\"-295\" height=\"-221\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Sad-memorial-750x563.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The village church of Agios Giorgos, 15<sup>th<\/sup> century or earlier, with good remaining frescoes, is a short climb, whilst a short distance further is the impressive roadside monument to the three villages, Koustoyerako, Livadas and Moni, a forever memorial to those dark days.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2555\" width=\"347\" height=\"463\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-750x1000.jpg 750w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/K_yerako-Memorial-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 347px) 100vw, 347px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Returning to the village centre, take the path to Livadas which begins from the SW corner of the platea (ask at the cafe if unsure.)&nbsp; An ancient <em>&#8216;kalderimi&#8217; <\/em>linking the two villages, there are still cobbled sections at the start and near the end, worn smooth by centuries of laden mules and donkeys.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2549\" width=\"355\" height=\"473\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas-750x1000.jpg 750w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Path-to-Livadas.jpg 1493w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 355px) 100vw, 355px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Half an hour of careful walking leads to the surfaced road, then turn left into Livadas and the church of Agii Pantes.&nbsp; There is ice-cold water here, and a picturesque campanile.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2546\" width=\"279\" height=\"371\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-750x1000.jpg 750w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Pantes-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 279px) 100vw, 279px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Just 60m beyond Ag. Pantes, turn right down a track (below the church) which descends gradually, leading in 1.5 km to the modern church of Agios Ioannis, and the road from Sougia.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2545\" width=\"377\" height=\"503\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis-750x1000.jpg 750w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Ag.-Ioannis.jpg 1546w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 377px) 100vw, 377px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>Agios Ioannis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Walk across to see a stone (Venetian) bridge over the riverbed, and in less than ten minutes return to the Oasis taverna.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2548\" width=\"526\" height=\"395\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-1536x1153.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-2048x1537.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/10\/Venetian-bridge-750x563.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 526px) 100vw, 526px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong><u>Koustoyerako<\/u><\/strong> is situated at alt. 510 m on the western fringe of the Levka Ori,&nbsp; 73 km from Chania, 11 km from Sougia and 33 km from Paleochora.&nbsp; It was once (c.1400 AD) known as&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201c Hristou Geraki \u201d, meaning the Hawk of Christ.&nbsp; In legend, a large bird of prey hovered over the village, with the sun high above casting a shadow of its head, tail, and wings into the form of a giant cross.&nbsp; This was taken as a propitious sign, and the village was so named.&nbsp; Thanks once again to Eftichis (Lucky) from the Alfa cafe in Azogires, whose great-grandmother was from Koustoyerako, and who witnessed some of the events, and atrocities, which took place there.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul {\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t margin:0px auto !important;text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left:3px;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-right:3px;\n\t\t\t\tpadding:0px;\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px ridge #E6354C;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:11px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground-color:#14CC9B;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li #backforunical2543 {\n\t\t\t\tborder-bottom: 0;\n\t\t\t\tbackground-image:url('https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-share-buttons\/Front_end\/..\/images\/buttons.30.png');\n\t\t\t\twidth:30px;\n\t\t\t\theight:30px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tposition: absolute;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\tdisplay: block;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size20 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 10px;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 20px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size30 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 11px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 15px;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 30px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size40 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 12px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 21px;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 40px;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t\n\t\t<div id=\"huge-it-share-buttons-top\" class=\"huge-it-share-buttons nobackground\">\n\t\t\t<h3>Share This:<\/h3>\n\t\t\t<ul class=\"huge-it-share-buttons-list \">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical2543\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2543\"  onclick=\"javascript:void window.open('https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2543','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -0px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical2543\" href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/share?status=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2543&text=A 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Livadas','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -480px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"none nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical2543\" href=\"http:\/\/n4g.com\/tips?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2543&title=A Walk to Koustoyerako and Livadas\"  onclick=\"javascript:void window.open('http:\/\/n4g.com\/tips?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2543&title=A Walk to Koustoyerako and Livadas','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -510px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"clear\"><\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We&#8217;ve been to the mountain village of Koustoyerako before on our Explore ! adventures, from Agios Theodoros via Agia Ekaterini chapel (ref. Archives July 2014), from Omalos via Linoseli and Achlada (November 2017) and a third time from the village to descend the Keratidias Gorge to the coast, and along the E4 path to Sougia &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/a-walk-to-koustoyerako-and-livadas\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2840,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[27,91,7,64,28,23,21],"class_list":["post-2543","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-bob-tait","tag-koustoyerako","tag-kriti","tag-sougia","tag-the-paleochora-site","tag-walks-in-greece","tag-western-crete","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A Walk to 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