{"id":238,"date":"2010-09-07T10:37:11","date_gmt":"2010-09-07T07:37:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=238"},"modified":"2022-10-08T17:25:23","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T14:25:23","slug":"stepping-back-in-timediscovering-an-ancient-castle-near-paleochora","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/stepping-back-in-timediscovering-an-ancient-castle-near-paleochora\/","title":{"rendered":"Stepping Back in Time&#8230;..Discovering an Ancient Castle Near Paleochora"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-227\" title=\"viewpoint\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/viewpoint-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"viewpoint\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/viewpoint-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/viewpoint.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Describing the route from Mesavlia to Malathiros (Walk 3 in our book\u00a0 &#8216;More Walks from Paleohora&#8217;, see below), we note that &#8220;the hill to the right has ruined stone walls encircling its summit, and was probably fortified at some point in its history.&#8221;<\/p><div class=\"apynh69da5e7a5fa42\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.apynh69da5e7a5fa42 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.apynh69da5e7a5fa42 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.apynh69da5e7a5fa42 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.apynh69da5e7a5fa42 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.apynh69da5e7a5fa42 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.apynh69da5e7a5fa42 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<p>That was in 2003.\u00a0 Now there&#8217;s a board at the foot of the hill, indicating a footpath to the Byzantine Castle above.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-228\" title=\"byz-castle-sign\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-sign-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"byz-castle-sign\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-sign-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-sign.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The walk there and back from Mesavlia, with an ascent of the hill and exploration of the site makes for a pleasant autumn afternoon, and will fit in with the Ktel bus timetable.\u00a0 Take the 12.00pm Chania bus from Paleohora to Mesavlia, asking to alight at the sign for the gorge, just before the village.\u00a0 If driving (31km) turn down this road for 200m and park by the bridge.<\/p>\n<p>Mesavlia is a scattered village, little of which can be seen from the main road.\u00a0 Cross the bridge and walk along the road, through several clusters of houses, and after 1km reach the fork where a track leads down right into the gorge.\u00a0 Avoid this and continue ahead, as the track climbs, passes an animal enclosure, levels out then falls, bending left to the col below the &#8216;castle&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>On the way, keep an eye out for the enormous griffon vultures almost always seen here, either circling above the gorge, or on the cliff ledges where they nest.\u00a0 Last February Lynne and I watched as two huge adult birds, with a wing span of around three metres, suddenly flew off from the carcass of a goat, just below the track.\u00a0 An awesome sight, and a little frightening!<\/p>\n<p>From the sign\/notice on the col, there&#8217;s a climb of 100 metres to the summit above at 602m.<br \/>\nInitially there is a path with blue waymarks, which soon give out, so look carefully for the feint path as it winds upwards, veering right.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_229\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-229\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-229\" title=\"byz-castle-gorge-2\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-gorge-2-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"The gorge from below the castle track\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-gorge-2-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-gorge-2.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-229\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The gorge from below the castle track<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Go through a wire &#8216;gate&#8217;, then up a gully below a wall, using hands where necessary as the &#8216;path&#8217; steepens.\u00a0 Eventually, leading back left, pass through an enclosing wall, close to one of three &#8216;sentry\/lookout posts&#8217; and into the &#8216;castle&#8217;.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_230\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-230\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-230\" title=\"byz-castle-lookout\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-lookout-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Castle lookout\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-lookout-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-lookout.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-230\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Castle lookout<\/p><\/div>\n<p>A pleasant hour or more can be spent exploring the site and enjoying the views.\u00a0 Although it&#8217;s over rough ground and boulders, try to reach the summit, where there appears to be the remains of a well close to the concrete trig pillar. And keep a close watch on children, as there are fearsome drops into the Deliana\/Mesavlia Gorge, some 250m below.\u00a0 Just when the &#8216;castle&#8217; was built is open to speculation and conjecture.\u00a0 The Byzantine era dates from AD 330-1204, a period of 874 years, although between AD 824\/961 Crete came under Arab rule.\u00a0 After 1204 the island was occupied by the Venetians and later by others &#8230;..<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_231\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-231\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-231\" title=\"byz-castle-wall\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-wall-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Castle walls\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-wall-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-wall.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-231\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Castle walls<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As with the Dorian site at Kadros (see &#8216;Explore&#8217; September 2009) it&#8217;s fascinating to sit among the ruins, and try to imagine the scene here many centuries ago.\u00a0 The site would certainly have been an almost impregnable fortress during the many troubled times Crete has witnessed.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_232\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-232\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-232\" title=\"byz-castle-wall-2\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-wall-2-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Byzantine walls\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-wall-2-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-wall-2.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-232\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Byzantine walls<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The views, if you&#8217;ve chosen a clear day for the climb, are quite outstanding.\u00a0 Below to the north lies\u00a0 Kissamos Bay between the arms of Gramvousa and Rodopou peninsulas. More distant are the White Mountains, and beyond Chania is the Akrotiri peninsula.\u00a0 If you know where to look, you can pick out the Sassalos, Topolia and Sirikari gorges, all to the west.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_233\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-233\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-233\" title=\"byz-castle-gorge\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-gorge-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"View into Mesavlia Gorge and beyond from the Castle\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-gorge-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/byz-castle-gorge.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-233\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View into Mesavlia Gorge and beyond from the Castle<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Take your time on the descent back to the col, from where it&#8217;s 2km back to the starting point.\u00a0 The bus (the last of the day!) leaving Chania at 4.15pm will pass around an hour later, but better to be sitting by the wooden bus shelter at 5.00pm, just in case it&#8217;s early.<\/p>\n<p>&#8216;More Walks from Paleohora&#8217; on sale (\u20ac10) at &#8216;To Delfini&#8217; bookshop in the village centre.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul {\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t margin:0px auto !important;text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left:3px;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-right:3px;\n\t\t\t\tpadding:0px;\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px ridge #E6354C;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:11px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground-color:#14CC9B;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li #backforunical238 {\n\t\t\t\tborder-bottom: 0;\n\t\t\t\tbackground-image:url('https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-share-buttons\/Front_end\/..\/images\/buttons.30.png');\n\t\t\t\twidth:30px;\n\t\t\t\theight:30px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tposition: absolute;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\tdisplay: block;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size20 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 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reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":3069,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[9,19,22,13,7,38,28,11,23,21],"class_list":["post-238","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-chania","tag-crete-gorge-walk","tag-greek-archeology","tag-hiking","tag-kriti","tag-paleochora","tag-the-paleochora-site","tag-walks","tag-walks-in-greece","tag-western-crete","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Stepping Back in Time.....Discovering an Ancient Castle Near Paleochora<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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