{"id":2214,"date":"2020-03-18T17:03:40","date_gmt":"2020-03-18T14:03:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=2214"},"modified":"2022-10-08T15:39:07","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T12:39:07","slug":"rodovani-and-elyros","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/rodovani-and-elyros\/","title":{"rendered":"Rodovani and Elyros"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Rodovani-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2208\" width=\"694\" height=\"520\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Rodovani.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Rodovani-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Rodovani-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 694px) 100vw, 694px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong>EDITORS NOTE:<\/strong> As this article is published it looks most unlikely that any visitors will be able to arrive for at least the early part of the season this year. Hopefully, you will be able to enjoy this (and other) walks here again in the near future. Until then, stay safe and enjoy Paleochora through our site.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-css-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>The 34km drive from Paleochora to Sougia passes through the high mountain village of Rodovani, at 525m above sea level, before the winding 11km descent to the coast. Slightly higher, and just 1.5 km away, is the hill-top of Kefala, 588m, the site of the ancient Dorian and later Roman city of Elyros.<\/p><div class=\"kspzr6a1352ecbf591\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.kspzr6a1352ecbf591 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.kspzr6a1352ecbf591 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.kspzr6a1352ecbf591 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.kspzr6a1352ecbf591 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.kspzr6a1352ecbf591 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.kspzr6a1352ecbf591 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n\n\n\n<p>Rodovani was supposedly established in the early years of the Venetian occupation (c.1200 AD) by a Croat mercenary in the Venetian army, Rodovano, its important location at the junction of three routes, north to Chania, east then south to Sougia and west to Selino.  Park in the small &#8216;platea&#8217; overlooking the deep Kamariano valley; look at the memorials opposite, then visit the amazing grocery store or &#8216;pantopoleio&#8217;, full of enticing Cretan produce, which owner Sofia will encourage you to sample.  Buy graviera cheese from Omalos, with local honey and raki, which, my friend Michelle maintains, go together well.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Local-produce-e1584540138209-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2206\" width=\"466\" height=\"618\"\/><figcaption>Local produce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Drive or walk 400m up to the road junction, turn right towards Sougia, passing two information boards, to a road leading up to Kefala.   Elyros was the most important Dorian city of Western Crete, the centre of an industrial and commercial area which included nearby Tarra, Pikilassos and Yrtakina, and flourished from the 4th century BC to 5th century AD.  Mainly agricultural, it had trade and merchant\/marine shipping through its ports of Syia (Sougia) and Lissos, its own currency and an estimated population of 16,000.  It was destroyed by the Saracens in AD 823.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Start-here-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2210\" width=\"598\" height=\"448\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Start-here.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Start-here-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Start-here-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 598px) 100vw, 598px\" \/><figcaption>Start here<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The track, rising, passes a ruined windmill and the modern church of the Panagia.  Some 700m from the main road it falls away left, with a grassy track heading off right; take this, leading up to the ancient site. <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Windmill.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2212\" width=\"558\" height=\"745\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Windmill.jpg 576w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Windmill-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 558px) 100vw, 558px\" \/><figcaption>Windmill<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p> Disappointingly, there is little evidence of a large and prosperous city; we&#8217;ve explored extensively around the olive trees and wire fencing (take care), followed the walls, found a possible grave (or water source,) but not located the Roman temple and theatre reputedly here.  <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Grave-or-spring.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2205\" width=\"582\" height=\"776\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Grave-or-spring.jpg 576w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Grave-or-spring-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 582px) 100vw, 582px\" \/><figcaption>Grave or spring<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The cemetery is some distance down to the SE (ref: <a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/the-kamaria-valley\/\">Explore! &#8211; April 2011<\/a>)  But the views are extensive, the spring flowers &#8211; red poppies especially \u2013 are stunning, so enjoy the atmosphere and just imagine \u2026.  <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Elyros-walls-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Elyros walls near paleochora\" class=\"wp-image-2204\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Elyros-walls.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Elyros-walls-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Elyros-walls-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><figcaption>Elyros walls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Either return the way you came OR extend the walk by another hour or so, to be recommended. Retrace back to the track junction, and turn right; as you wind down around the hillside, if you have a map, or know the area well, try and identify the distant villages \u2013 Agriles, Argastiri, Kambanos, Prines, Epanochori, and beyond the defile of Agia Eirini gorge, Koustogerako, Livadas, and later down the valley to Sougia and the sea.  Several side turnings should be avoided, keeping on the well-used track, climbing a slight incline as it bends westwards, with Kamaria far below.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/More-Elyros-walls-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"elyros walls near paleochora\" class=\"wp-image-2207\" width=\"586\" height=\"439\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/More-Elyros-walls.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/More-Elyros-walls-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/More-Elyros-walls-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 586px) 100vw, 586px\" \/><figcaption>More Elyros walls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>When it appears to fade and give out, don&#8217;t panic!  Ignore a path left\/downhill, and press ahead, threading a level way between olive trees, passing  a ruined stone house or well, until you can see terracing ahead and below; you may need to drop down to reach a faint path running alongside a 1-m high stone wall (see photo.)  <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Walk-along-here-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"paleochora walk here\" class=\"wp-image-2211\" width=\"583\" height=\"438\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Walk-along-here.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Walk-along-here-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Walk-along-here-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 583px) 100vw, 583px\" \/><figcaption>Walk along here<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>This becomes more defined and leads easily to the Roman cisterns.  Built during the Roman occupation of Elyros from 67 BC \u2013 330 AD, water emanated from a source high in Livada, 2km to the NW, and ran through clay pipes and via an aqueduct into the cisterns, to supply the city&#8217;s water requirements.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Roman-cisterns-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"paleochora walk here\" class=\"wp-image-2209\" width=\"512\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Roman-cisterns.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Roman-cisterns-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Roman-cisterns-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><figcaption>Roman cisterns<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>A little further on, the path will bring you back to the track and Panagia church, and a return to the starting point.  With only a slim chance of an open Kafenion in Rodovani, drive 1km along the Chania road to Agriles, and the recently opened &#8216;To Palio Benzinadiko&#8217; cafe\/taverna * before starting the drive back to Paleochora.  <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Cafe-Taverna-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"paleochora sign\" class=\"wp-image-2213\" width=\"518\" height=\"388\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Cafe-Taverna.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Cafe-Taverna-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/Cafe-Taverna-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 518px) 100vw, 518px\" \/><figcaption>Cafe Taverna<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Over excellent coffee, Eftichia told us there once was a garage here, with petrol pumps outside, hence the name \u2013 &#8216;The Old Petrol Station&#8217;.  \u201c I remember it well,\u201d I told her, \u201cabout thirty years ago ?\u201d   \u201cI would have been just a small baby,\u201d she replied.   O dear \u2026  Virgil,  writing over two thousand years ago, was correct &#8211;  \u201cMeanwhile time is flying \u2013 flying never to return \u2026.\u201d   So &#8211; Carpe Diem  \u2013 \u201cSeize the Day\u201d \u2026.   and quite possibly Virgil wrote that too\u2026..<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>*Under current restrictions the cafe, if open, is allowed to serve &#8216;take-away&#8217; drinks only, which you can enjoy on the terrace, overlooking one of the finest views in South-West Crete.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px 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Elyros','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -480px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"none nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical2214\" href=\"http:\/\/n4g.com\/tips?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2214&title=Rodovani and Elyros\"  onclick=\"javascript:void window.open('http:\/\/n4g.com\/tips?url=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2214&title=Rodovani and Elyros','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -510px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/ul>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"clear\"><\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>EDITORS NOTE: As this article is published it looks most unlikely that any visitors will be able to arrive for at least the early part of the season this year. Hopefully, you will be able to enjoy this (and other) walks here again in the near future. Until then, stay safe and enjoy Paleochora through &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/rodovani-and-elyros\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2877,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1],"tags":[66,63,67,62,65,64],"class_list":["post-2214","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-paleochora","category-uncategorized","tag-dorian","tag-elyros","tag-history","tag-rodovani","tag-roman","tag-sougia","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Circular Paleochora Walk - Rodavani and Elyros<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"On This walk between Paleochora and Sougia, you can see the site of an ancient city as well as some amazing scenery. 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