{"id":1798,"date":"2018-06-20T10:36:35","date_gmt":"2018-06-20T07:36:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=1798"},"modified":"2022-10-08T16:08:14","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T13:08:14","slug":"kallergi-mountain-refuge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/kallergi-mountain-refuge\/","title":{"rendered":"Kallergi Mountain Refuge"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_1804\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Pachnes-from-Xyloscala.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1804\" class=\"wp-image-1804 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Pachnes-from-Xyloscala-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Pachnes-from-Xyloscala.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Pachnes-from-Xyloscala-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Pachnes-from-Xyloscala-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1804\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pachnes from Xyloscala<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Whilst the ascent of Gingilos, 1,974m, is a reasonably straightforward ascent from Xyloscala * (see Explore ! &#8211; April 2014), summits across the Samaria Gorge &#8211; Melindaou, Pachnes and other peaks in the Levka Ori \u2013 are less easily attainable, and outside the scope of many visitors to Crete.<\/p><div class=\"mvvre6a1b99cf5c135\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.mvvre6a1b99cf5c135 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.mvvre6a1b99cf5c135 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.mvvre6a1b99cf5c135 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.mvvre6a1b99cf5c135 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.mvvre6a1b99cf5c135 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.mvvre6a1b99cf5c135 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<p>One shorter, easier, and rewarding &#8216;expedition&#8217; is to walk up to the mountain refuge at Kallergi, a climb of 450m from Xyloscala, and enjoy wide-ranging views over the Samaria Gorge, Pachnes, Gingilos and the Omalos plateau .<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1809\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1809\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1809\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-2.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-2-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1809\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kallergi Hut<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Situated at 1,680m on the north-west rim of the Samaria Gorge, Kallergi Refuge was built during the Greece dictatorship (1967-74), opened in 1971 and used for military training.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1800\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Refuge.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1800\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1800\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Refuge-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Refuge-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Refuge.jpg 576w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1800\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kallergi Refuge<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Afterwards it was taken over by the Chania Mountain Club (EOS), and is open daily during the summer months (May \u2013 October) and at weekends in winter.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1808\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1808\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1808\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-1-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1808\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kallergi Hut<\/p><\/div>\n<p>An overnight stay is an experience, with accommodation (for 45) in bunks or an Alpine-style sleeping platform, and simple meals available. ** Onward routes include the difficult trek via Pachnes to Anopolis, the even harder E4 trail to the Niato plateau and Askifou, and through the Eligas Gorge to Agia Roumeli.<\/p>\n<p>With the exception of a few setting off for Linoseli and Gingilos, almost everyone at Xyloscala will be heading down the gorge to Agia Roumeli, so leave the crowds behind, and take the path signposted E4 and &#8216;Kallergi Refuge 1 hr 30&#8217;.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1805\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Path-sign.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1805\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1805\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Path-sign-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Path-sign-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Path-sign.jpg 576w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1805\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Path sign<\/p><\/div>\n<p>But first, gaze across the vastness of Samaria Gorge to Pachnes, highest White Mountains peak at 2453m, which usually holds snow until late June, but which this year, worryingly, had all but gone by mid-April (see photo at the start of the article).<\/p>\n<p>The path climbs gently, contouring around the hillside above Xyloscala, and soon \u201cthe voices on the road, they have gone.\u201d After twenty minutes or so, pass through a gate to join the rough service road, but before that, enjoy the view to the wide Omalos Plateau, now a thousand feet &#8211; 300m &#8211; below.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1806\" style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/View-to-Omalos.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1806\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1806\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/View-to-Omalos.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/View-to-Omalos.jpg 576w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/View-to-Omalos-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1806\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View to Omalos<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Turn right, uphill : this isn&#8217;t particularly inspiring, but height is gained easily and quickly. At the next bend, waymarking (blue &amp; purple) leads up a gully, more directly to Kallergi, but this is loose, rocky, and you&#8217;ll lose the views, so better to stay on the road.<\/p>\n<p>The top is marked by a small stone shelter (\u201ckoumi\u201d) built in memory of a young Cretan shepherd murdered here in 1941.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1802\" style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Koumi-sign.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1802\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1802\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Koumi-sign.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Koumi-sign.jpg 576w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Koumi-sign-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1802\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Koumi sign<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Kallergi is just five minutes&#8217; away, and en route you&#8217;ll pass the legendary wooden toilet, overlooking (and overhanging !) the depths of Samaria, far below.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1801\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-toilet.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1801\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1801\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-toilet-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-toilet-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-toilet.jpg 576w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1801\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kallergi toilet.. Gardez l&#8217;eau!<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Views from the terrace are breathtaking \u2013 you remembered a camera and binoculars, didn&#8217;t you ?<\/p>\n<p>South are Volakias, 2116m, Gingilos and Psilafi, 1984m,<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1807\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Volakias-Gingilos.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1807\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1807\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Volakias-Gingilos-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Volakias-Gingilos.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Volakias-Gingilos-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Volakias-Gingilos-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1807\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Volakias &amp; Gingilos<\/p><\/div>\n<p>to the east is Melindaou, 2133m,<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1803\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Melindaou-ridge.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1803\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1803\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Melindaou-ridge-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Melindaou-ridge.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Melindaou-ridge-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Melindaou-ridge-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1803\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Melindaou ridge<\/p><\/div>\n<p>and the ridge over Mavri, 1883m, to Psari 1817m (the route to Katsiveli traverses this high ridge.) Pachnes is more distant, with the cliff face of Zaranokefala, 2135m, away to the south-east.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1799\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1799\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1799\" src=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-4-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Kallergi-Hut-4.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1799\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kallergi Hut<\/p><\/div>\n<p>There&#8217;s every chance of seeing eagles here, possibly Griffon Vultures, and if you&#8217;re very lucky the rare Lammergeier, or Bearded Vulture (recognisable by a distinctive diamond-shaped tail, and wing-span up to 280 cm) circling high in the thermals.<\/p>\n<p>Descent is by the same way, either returning to Xyloscala or following the service road down to the Omalos plateau. There&#8217;s an alternative, from Kallergi over the Koukouli ridge heading north-west to Omalos village. I&#8217;ve not yet walked this route, but Christoforos Baladimas, the summer warden at Kallergi, who waymarked the path, tells me it takes around three hours, and is easier to follow in ascent rather than descending.<\/p>\n<p>* Xyloscala is 65 km from Paleochora, through Rodovani and Agia Irini. An early morning<br \/>\nKTEL bus runs in summer, and both Notos Travel and Psarakis Taxis offer transfers.<br \/>\nOne suggestion &#8211; tried and tested &#8211; is to climb Gingilos, stay overnight at Kallergi, and<br \/>\nnext morning walk down to Agia Roumeli to take the \u201cSamaria\u201d ferry back to Paleochora.<\/p>\n<p>** Bookings\/reservations through Christoforos Baladimas at (0030) 28210 44647<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul 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straightforward ascent from Xyloscala * (see Explore ! &#8211; April 2014), summits across the Samaria Gorge &#8211; Melindaou, Pachnes and other peaks in the Levka Ori \u2013 are less easily attainable, and outside the scope of many visitors to Crete. One shorter, easier, and rewarding &#8216;expedition&#8217; &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/kallergi-mountain-refuge\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2924,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1],"tags":[19,12,13,21,36],"class_list":["post-1798","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-paleochora","category-uncategorized","tag-crete-gorge-walk","tag-hikes","tag-hiking","tag-western-crete","tag-white-mountains","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Kallergi Mountain Refuge<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link 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