{"id":165,"date":"2010-04-11T17:33:38","date_gmt":"2010-04-11T14:33:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=165"},"modified":"2022-10-08T17:27:29","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T14:27:29","slug":"uphill-all-the-way-ups-downs-around-paleochora","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/uphill-all-the-way-ups-downs-around-paleochora\/","title":{"rendered":"Uphill all the Way &#8211; Ups &#038; Downs Around Paleochora"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Anyone considering hiring a bike and planning a cycle ride from Paleohora should bear in mind\u00a0 the first verse of Christina Rossetti&#8217;s poem &#8216;Up-Hill&#8217; :<\/p>\n<p>&#8216;Does the road wind up-hill all the way ?&#8217;<br \/>\n&#8216;Yes, to the very end.&#8217;<br \/>\n&#8216;Will the day&#8217;s journey take the whole long day ?&#8217;<br \/>\n&#8216;From morn to night, my friend.&#8217;<br \/>\nThat&#8217;s certainly true (almost) if you cycle up to Sklavopoula, as three friends and I did at the end of March.\u00a0 The climb of 20km and over 700m ascent took us around 3.5 hrs, although we stopped off in Voutas (for water) and in Moustakos for traditional and spontaneous Cretan hospitality.<\/p><div class=\"qrykh6a10e6b35d594\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.qrykh6a10e6b35d594 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.qrykh6a10e6b35d594 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.qrykh6a10e6b35d594 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.qrykh6a10e6b35d594 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.qrykh6a10e6b35d594 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.qrykh6a10e6b35d594 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<div id=\"attachment_169\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-169\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-169\" title=\"moustakos\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/moustakos-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Moustakos (or 'Five go mad in the mountains')\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/moustakos-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/moustakos.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-169\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Moustakos<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As we rested in the village centre, Maria and Andreas brought us the inevitable raki, with plates of hazel nuts and small fish (merida), and told us more about the village. Fifty years ago, Maria said, there were a hundred inhabitants, but now just twenty permanent residents, and it&#8217;s a lonely life for the elderly in winter, being so isolated.\u00a0 She lives in Chania, and was spending Easter in the family home.\u00a0 From Sklavopoula, after lemonade and kalitsounia in the little cafenion, we freewheeled 16km back to Paleohora in just 40 minutes.<\/p>\n<p>Easier rides out of Paleohora are east to Ianniscari (Anidri) beach, 4km each way, and for the more energetic, a climb of 5km and 200m to Anidri village, for lunch or mezedes in the former school, now &#8216;To Scolio&#8217; taverna.\u00a0 West of the town are the beaches of Grammeno,\u00a0 5km each way, and Krios (8km e.w), although traffic along the road can be both fast and furious, and dangerous for cycling.<\/p>\n<p>Here&#8217;s a challenging ride of 32km (20m), suitable for fit cyclists with low-geared machines. Set off early, and carry water and sun-protection.\u00a0 Take the main Kandanos road north out of Paleohora for 3km to the Azogires turn, where the road really does wind steeply uphill for 2km, then gradually eases off into the village.\u00a0 With half the climbing completed &#8211; although only a quarter of the distance &#8211; you&#8217;ve earned a drink and rest in the &#8216;Alpha&#8217; cafe.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_170\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-170\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-170\" title=\"azogires-cafe\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/azogires-cafe-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Azogires\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/azogires-cafe-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/azogires-cafe.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-170\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Azogires<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Continue out of the village for 1km, with waterfalls in the little river below, then turn right, signposted &#8216;Asfendiles 3&#8217;, and ride through a ford, where water flows until high summer.\u00a0 As the road\u00a0 steadily gains height the views widen, with Paleohora now in sight way below.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_171\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-171\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-171\" title=\"azogires-ford\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/azogires-ford-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"The Ford at Azogires\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/azogires-ford-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/azogires-ford.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-171\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ford at Azogires<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Above and beyond Asfendiles the surfaced road becomes a rough track for around 2km, as it climbs to the next village, Platanes.\u00a0 On a distinctive bend, pass by the old schoolhouse, sadly now derelict, which served the two villages, but what a place to go to school!\u00a0 Far below is the sea, glimmering in the distance, and the road snaking downhill towards it.\u00a0 A long descent to look forward to after all the exertion.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_172\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-172\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-172\" title=\"platanes-viewpoint\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/platanes-viewpoint-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Admiring the View at Platanes\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/platanes-viewpoint-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/platanes-viewpoint.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-172\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Admiring the View at Platanes<\/p><\/div>\n<p>High above the road is Yrtakina, a Dorian hill site well worth a visit, but more of that another time.\u00a0 On the left is a spring of ice-cold water, which will be much appreciated after the climb of around 760m (2,500ft) from sea level.\u00a0 Now the road is surfaced again, and a road junction reached.\u00a0 It&#8217;s practically all downhill from here, with 17km of freewheeling through Prodromi (4km) and Anidri (12km) back to Paleohora.\u00a0 It&#8217;s advisable to wear a helmet now, as there are no roadside barriers, and with possible rocks and goats around every bend, a fall at speed could be serious.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_173\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-173\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-173\" title=\"platenes-water\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/platenes-water-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"If only there was one which gushed cold beer\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/platenes-water-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/platenes-water.jpg 478w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-173\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">If only there was one which gushed cold beer<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Prodromi is a small hill village dominated by the church of Aghios Charalambos, and with great views, if you&#8217;re cycling slow enough to appreciate them.\u00a0 Further down at Anidri, a tap opposite the &#8216;To Scolio&#8217;\u00a0 will provide more water, although the cafenion is really too good to pass by. Some 15 minutes later, after riding through a scenic mini-gorge, you&#8217;ll be back in Paleohora.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_174\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-174\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-174\" title=\"prodromi-signpost\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/prodromi-signpost-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"The turnoff to Prodromi\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/prodromi-signpost-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/prodromi-signpost.jpg 639w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-174\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The turnoff to Prodromi<\/p><\/div>\n<p>If you&#8217;re looking for guided cycle tours, contact Hellas Bikes (<a href=\"http:\/\/hellasbike.net\">www.hellasbike.net<\/a>) who organise day &amp; half-day tours, largely downhill, graded between Very Easy &amp; Difficult.\u00a0 They also promote &#8216;Master Open Races&#8217; for serious racing cyclists.\u00a0 A Master Race weekend in Paleohora over June 12th\/13th includes a time-trial, and a long-distance race from Paleohora to Chania.\u00a0 And of course I&#8217;ll be there at the start line of the race &#8230;&#8230;. but just watching!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul {\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t margin:0px auto !important;text-align:center; 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