{"id":1357,"date":"2016-03-19T15:45:41","date_gmt":"2016-03-19T12:45:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=1357"},"modified":"2022-10-08T16:43:04","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T13:43:04","slug":"kefali-vathi-and-pervolia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/kefali-vathi-and-pervolia\/","title":{"rendered":"Kefali, Vathi and Pervolia"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The best time to visit Elafonisi is undoubtedly during the winter, when summer hordes are\u00a0 replaced by a few hardy visitors enjoying often windswept (but usually empty) beaches and bracing sea air.\u00a0 Since Lynne died, it&#8217;s become an annual pilgrimage between Christmas and New Year, finding solace and strength for the year ahead, usually alone, but most recently with Joanna, looking to enjoy a walk en route, and as a keen botanist, hoping to find the rare &#8216;<em>androcymbium rechingeri&#8217; <\/em>flowers, endemic to Crete and located only on Elafonisi \u201cisland\u201d and Falasarna, and then only in mid-winter.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Elafonisi-winter.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1360\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-1360\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Elafonisi-winter-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Elafonisi winter\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Elafonisi-winter.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Elafonisi-winter-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Elafonisi-winter-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p><div class=\"latng69f30c9756065\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.latng69f30c9756065 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.latng69f30c9756065 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.latng69f30c9756065 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.latng69f30c9756065 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.latng69f30c9756065 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.latng69f30c9756065 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<p>Elafonisi is 52km from Paleochora, en route passing through a region called <em>\u201cEnneachora\u201d <\/em>(nine villages), the largest of which is Elos, now with a &#8216;by-pass&#8217; below it.\u00a0 A little further on is Kefali, where we stopped for coffee and what what we thought would be a short two-hour walk.\u00a0 Described in our book \u201cMore Walks from Paleohora\u201d *, the route starts from the far end of the village where there is a park and playground area, right, with a small statue (to Nikolaos Pimplis \u2013 1872-1963 \u2013 a Professor of Education and local war-time hero.)<\/p>\n<p>Next to here is a large plane tree ; directly across the road from this is a footpath, little used and often overgrown.\u00a0 This slants diagonally between houses and into olive groves, and appears to end.\u00a0 But persevere, keeping upwards to meet a clearer track which heads towards Papadiana.\u00a0 When it begins to descend, fork sharp left, the track winding down to reach the former (Kefali) village school, with a small church in the pine trees above.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1361\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Papadiana.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1361\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1361\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1361\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Papadiana-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Papadiana\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Papadiana-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Papadiana-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Papadiana.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1361\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Papadiana<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Continue down to reach the main road, and turn right to the tiny slate-roofed church of Agios Vasileios, left of and below the road.\u00a0 Go down the gully below the church to a small concrete footbridge, then turn up right on passageways through Vathi.\u00a0 Continue along these, then down past derelict houses to meet the surfaced road to Tzitzifia at a bridge over the river.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1359\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Church-below-Kefali.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1359\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1359\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1359\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Church-below-Kefali-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Church below Kefali\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Church-below-Kefali-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Church-below-Kefali-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Church-below-Kefali.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1359\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Church below Kefali<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Cross the bridge, walking up out of the village, and when the road bends right, turn left up a steep gully. This soon becomes a narrow path, and beyond the last house turn sharp right, passing above a small chapel in a vineyard, to reach a bull-dozed track.\u00a0 Climb uphill to reach a stone wall at right-angles across this, and walk left in front of the wall, then right, rising again to a wire gate, and through this to a rough road.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1366\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Vathi.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1366\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1366\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1366\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Vathi-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Vathi\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Vathi-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Vathi-768x575.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Vathi.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1366\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vathi<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Turn left along this, with good views over Vathi, as it descends to the valley, crossing the river at a ford.\u00a0 In summer it will be dry, but after rain you might have to jump over boulders or even wade across.\u00a0 On the far side, walk up to meet a surfaced road, and turn right alongside the river into Pervolia.\u00a0 Opposite the first house you reach \u2013 a former mill &#8211;\u00a0\u00a0 look for a track on the left, which you will take later.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1365\" style=\"width: 574px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Stream-nr-Pervolia.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1365\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1365\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Stream-nr-Pervolia.jpg\" alt=\"Stream nr Pervolia\" width=\"574\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Stream-nr-Pervolia.jpg 574w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Stream-nr-Pervolia-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 574px) 100vw, 574px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1365\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stream nr Pervolia<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Joanna and I, walking fast in late December, reached here in around an hour, and carried on into the village.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1364\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1364\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1364\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1364\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Pervolia\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1364\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pervolia<\/p><\/div>\n<p>An elderly man was depositing rubbish in a skip by the stone bridge .<em>\u201cYassas,\u201d<\/em> he greeted us, and the usual questions, <em>\u201cwhere are you from, where are yougoing?\u201d\u00a0 \u201cBack to K<\/em>e<em>fali<\/em>,\u201d we told him,<em> \u201c and then to Elafonisi.\u201d\u00a0 \u201cYou must come come to my house for raki, elate,\u201d <\/em>he insisted, and despite it only being late morning, we followed him.<\/p>\n<p>He paused at the statue of Anagnostis Skalidis (1818-1901), a <em>&#8216;pallikari&#8217;,<\/em> a Cretan patriot and freedom fighter of bygone days.\u00a0 <em>\u201cMy grandfather,\u201d\u00a0 <\/em>he told us proudly, and led the way into his house, the upper floor of which he has converted into a museum.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1363\" style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-statue.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1363\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1363\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1363\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-statue.jpg\" alt=\"Pervolia statue\" width=\"576\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-statue.jpg 576w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-statue-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1363\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pervolia statue<\/p><\/div>\n<p>And there we spent a fascinating hour or so, with 87 year-old Zacharias (Skalidis) showing us old photographs, news cuttings, letters, books, weapons used against the Turks and Germans and much more.\u00a0 His voice quavered and eyes moistened when he told us (only in Greek) that his older brother had been executed (at Agia prison in Chania) in August\u00a0 1944. We signed his Visitors Book and left a small donation, and promised to send copies of the photos we took.\u00a0 And of course we enjoyed the <em>&#8216;raki&#8217; <\/em>and biscuits his wife offered us.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-museum.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1362\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-1362\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-museum-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Pervolia museum\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-museum-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-museum-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Pervolia-museum.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The aforementioned track rises gently through olive groves, before a final climb (rear of a building materials yard) to the main road just outside Kefali.\u00a0 Rather later than intended, we drove on to Elafonisi, almost totally deserted, walked across to the \u201cisland\u201d in warm afternoon sunshine, and found masses of <em>&#8216;androcymbium rechingeri&#8217; <\/em>just beginning to flower \u2026&#8230;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1358\" style=\"width: 574px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Androcymbium.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1358\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1358\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1358\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Androcymbium.jpg\" alt=\"Androcymbium\" width=\"574\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Androcymbium.jpg 574w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/Androcymbium-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 574px) 100vw, 574px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1358\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Androcymbium<\/p><\/div>\n<p>*\u00a0 \u201cMore Walks from Paleohora\u201d still on sale at &#8216;To Delfini&#8217; bookshop in the town.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top 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reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2969,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[27,34,12,13,38,28,23,21],"class_list":["post-1357","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-paleochora","tag-bob-tait","tag-hidden-crete-beach","tag-hikes","tag-hiking","tag-paleochora","tag-the-paleochora-site","tag-walks-in-greece","tag-western-crete","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Kefali, Vathi and Pervolia<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/kefali-vathi-and-pervolia\/\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" 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