{"id":1152,"date":"2015-05-30T14:33:15","date_gmt":"2015-05-30T11:33:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=1152"},"modified":"2022-10-08T16:49:47","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T13:49:47","slug":"over-the-hills-from-strati-to-kandanos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/over-the-hills-from-strati-to-kandanos\/","title":{"rendered":"Over the hills from Strati to Kandanos"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In the long term, little seems to change in Paleochora ; the sun shines for over 300 days a year, winter snow falls on the White Mountains, the welcome to visitors from hotels, tavernas and cafeneia remains as genuine as ever, beaches bordering the Libyan Sea entice as always, the \u201cSamaria\u201d ferry links the town (and walkers especially) with Sougia, Agia Roumeli, Loutro and Sfakia, and Gavdos island floats on the distant horizon.<\/p>\n<p>Each year though, there are differences, some noticeable, others imperceptible.\u00a0 Premises change businesses and sometimes owners ; last year a new bakery opened and a traditional one closed ; Stavros, the barber on the Main St, retired ; the popular \u201cSkala\u201d at the harbour is currently closed, and the new Mayor and Town Council elected last autumn \u201chave promises to keep.\u201d<\/p><div class=\"oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.oasib6a2d2cbf86ae8 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<p>An innovation which proved successful last summer, and hopefully will be repeated this, was the introduction of a twice-daily mini-bus service between Paleochora and Sougia.\u00a0 This allowed a variety of walks around Temenia, Maza, Rodovani and Kamaria, and the one described below, from Strati over the hills to Kandanos, taking around two and a half hours.<\/p>\n<p>First, check to see if there&#8217;s a bus to Sougia through Strati, and if not, book a taxi for the 14km ride through Azogires and Achladiakes.\u00a0 Then find out when the KTEL bus will pass through Kandanos (1hr 30 mins after leaving Chania.)\u00a0 There&#8217;s no water after Strati, so take an ample supply with you.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1159\" style=\"width: 466px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Strati-village.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1159\" class=\" wp-image-1159\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Strati-village-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Strati village\" width=\"466\" height=\"348\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Strati-village-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Strati-village.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1159\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strati village<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The driver, bus or taxi, will drop you off in the \u201ccentre\u201d of Strati, once a thriving village (population 79 in 1881, now with fewer than 20 inhabitants), under the slopes of Anemomilos mountain.\u00a0 This translates as \u201cwindmill\u201d, and one stood on the summit during the Turkish rule, and\u00a0 another (watermill) in the river below the village.\u00a0 Walk on along the main road to a spring of cold clear water.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1157\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Spring-at-Strati.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1157\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1157\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Spring-at-Strati-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Spring at Strati\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Spring-at-Strati-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Spring-at-Strati.jpg 574w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1157\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spring at Strati<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The village church, Agia Marina, is below right, and, as many others hereabouts, has frescos painted by the renowned Ioannis Pagomenos in 1323.\u00a0 Continuing north, ignore a left turn, which leads (only) to the remote church of Ag. Dimitrios, but take the next track left, shortly before a sharp 180-degree bend in the road.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1154\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Agia-Marina.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1154\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1154\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Agia-Marina-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Agia Marina\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Agia-Marina-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Agia-Marina.jpg 574w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1154\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agia Marina<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_1158\" style=\"width: 574px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/St-George-icon.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1158\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1158\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/St-George-icon.jpg\" alt=\"St George icon\" width=\"574\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/St-George-icon.jpg 574w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/St-George-icon-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 574px) 100vw, 574px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1158\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">St George icon<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Now comes a steady ascent of 1 km, climbing 100m, and avoiding all side turns, to reach a \u201ccol\u201d at 800m.\u00a0 Relax and enjoy the view over the Kandanos valley below, and far away, the two peninsulas of Gramvousa and Rodopos on the north coast.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1153\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/and-the-summit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1153\" class=\"wp-image-1153 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/and-the-summit-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"... and the summit\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/and-the-summit-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/and-the-summit.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1153\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">&#8230; and the summit<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Several tracks meet here, be careful! The one you need is the lower of two leading right, keeping right of a locked gate, and slightly uphill.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1160\" style=\"width: 574px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/View-to-Kandanos.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1160\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1160\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/View-to-Kandanos.jpg\" alt=\"View to Kandanos\" width=\"574\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/View-to-Kandanos.jpg 574w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/View-to-Kandanos-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 574px) 100vw, 574px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1160\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View to Kandanos<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The track heading initially west would take you towards the summit of Anemomilos, 936m (and at 3,070ft, a Scottish &#8216;Munro&#8217;), but you need to be careful in more ways than one. The terrain once the track ends is rough and rocky, and there are several gates and fences to cross.\u00a0 One evening last summer, having traversed the ridge via the summit, we were relaxing in the Alpha cafe in Azogires when Meiki, the Paleochora postman, who owns many goats, sheep, and areas of land hereabouts, came in and spotted us.\u00a0 \u201cYou&#8217;ve been in the mountains,\u201d a statement rather than a question, \u201cdid you close all the fences?\u201d\u00a0 \u201cYes, of course,\u201d we assured him. \u201cAre you sure?\u201d he persisted.\u00a0 \u201cCertainly,\u201d we confirmed.\u00a0 \u201cBecause I&#8217;ve been watching you all the way (through binoculars)\u201d he replied.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1155\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Anemomilos-936m-above-Strati.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1155\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1155\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Anemomilos-936m-above-Strati-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Anemomilos, 936m, above Strati\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Anemomilos-936m-above-Strati-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Anemomilos-936m-above-Strati.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1155\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anemomilos, 936m, above Strati<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The track to Kandanos climbs slightly to a gate (easily unwired, close behind you), then, losing height, bends towards \u2013 then below \u2013 a large animal building.\u00a0 Soon afterwards, turn sharp left (possible gate), the track then twisting and turning, always downhill, to reach the shade of tall oak trees.\u00a0 Look out for the &#8216;rhinocerous&#8217; \u2026&#8230;\u00a0\u00a0 Stay on the main track to reach Ag. Giorgos, with picnic tables and seating, but mind your head on the low doorways.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1156\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Rhinocerous-tree-....jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1156\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1156\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Rhinocerous-tree-...-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Rhinocerous tree ...\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Rhinocerous-tree-...-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Rhinocerous-tree-....jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1156\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhinocerous tree &#8230;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Soon the track becomes a surfaced road ; keep right in the hamlet of Labriana, then through Benoudiana and a final stretch into Kandanos, where there are several excellent tavernas to rest and relax whilst waiting for the &#8216;bus back to Paleochora.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul {\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t margin:0px auto !important;text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li {\n\t\t\t\tmargin-left:3px;\n\t\t\t\tmargin-right:3px;\n\t\t\t\tpadding:0px;\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px ridge #E6354C;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:11px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground-color:#14CC9B;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li #backforunical1152 {\n\t\t\t\tborder-bottom: 0;\n\t\t\t\tbackground-image:url('https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-share-buttons\/Front_end\/..\/images\/buttons.30.png');\n\t\t\t\twidth:30px;\n\t\t\t\theight:30px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tposition: absolute;\n\t\t\t\ttext-align: center;\n\t\t\t\tdisplay: block;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size20 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 10px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 10px;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 20px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size30 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 11px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 15px;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 30px;\n\t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.shares_size40 .front-shares-count {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size: 12px;\n\t\t\t\ttop: 21px;\n\t\t\t\twidth: 40px;\n\t\t\t}\n\t\t<\/style>\n\t\t\n\t\t<div id=\"huge-it-share-buttons-top\" class=\"huge-it-share-buttons nobackground\">\n\t\t\t<h3>Share This:<\/h3>\n\t\t\t<ul class=\"huge-it-share-buttons-list \">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical1152\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1152\"  onclick=\"javascript:void window.open('https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1152','1410949501326','width=700,height=500,toolbar=0,menubar=0,location=0,status=1,scrollbars=1,resizable=1,left=0,top=0');return false;\" style=\"background-position: -0px -120px \"><\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<li class=\"nobackground \" >\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<a id=\"backforunical1152\" 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little seems to change in Paleochora ; the sun shines for over 300 days a year, winter snow falls on the White Mountains, the welcome to visitors from hotels, tavernas and cafeneia remains as genuine as ever, beaches bordering the Libyan Sea entice as always, the \u201cSamaria\u201d ferry links the town &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/over-the-hills-from-strati-to-kandanos\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2985,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[27,9,19,12,13,7,15,4,38,28,23,21,36],"class_list":["post-1152","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-bob-tait","tag-chania","tag-crete-gorge-walk","tag-hikes","tag-hiking","tag-kriti","tag-olive-tree","tag-palaiohora","tag-paleochora","tag-the-paleochora-site","tag-walks-in-greece","tag-western-crete","tag-white-mountains","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Over the hills from Strati to Kandanos<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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