{"id":1017,"date":"2014-07-19T14:19:47","date_gmt":"2014-07-19T11:19:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/?p=1017"},"modified":"2022-10-08T16:58:17","modified_gmt":"2022-10-08T13:58:17","slug":"e4-path-koustoyerako","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/e4-path-koustoyerako\/","title":{"rendered":"The E4 path to Koustoyerako"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The only drawback to the summer KTEL bus which runs to Omalos, leaving Paleochora at 6.15am, is just that\u00a0 &#8211;\u00a0 the early morning departure is not to everyone&#8217;s liking, especially after a leisurely meal and maybe some relaxing drinks in the cool of a late evening in our village.\u00a0 But if you can make it in time, as we did recently, and then stay awake, the journey is spectacular, as dawn spreads over the mountains and through the olive groves to the numerous Cretan villages passed en route.<\/p>\n<p>Several passengers left the bus to walk through the Agia Irini Gorge, those remaining would be descending Samaria, and must have wondered where we were heading when driver Yiannis dropped us off, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, soon after 8am.\u00a0 We were actually at Agios Theodoros church, on the western fringe of the Omalos plateau, and our route was along an alternative section of the E4 path, to Koustoyerako, and from there down to Sougia for the ferry home.<\/p><div class=\"vjykh6a13d70c77192\" ><script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script>\n<!-- convertri page leaderboard -->\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\"\n     style=\"display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px\"\n     data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-1583078900392636\"\n     data-ad-slot=\"4520084506\"><\/ins>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/div><style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n.vjykh6a13d70c77192 {\r\nmargin: 5px;padding: 0px;\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 1201px) {\r\n.vjykh6a13d70c77192 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 993px) and (max-width: 1200px) {\r\n.vjykh6a13d70c77192 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 769px) and (max-width: 992px) {\r\n.vjykh6a13d70c77192 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (min-width: 768px) and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n.vjykh6a13d70c77192 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 767px) {\r\n.vjykh6a13d70c77192 {\r\ndisplay: block;\r\n}\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\r\n\n<div id=\"attachment_1018\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Theodoros.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1018\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1018\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Theodoros-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Ag. Theodoros\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Theodoros-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Theodoros.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1018\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ag. Theodoros<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This is one of three alternatives to the difficult (usually 2-day) coastal walk between Sougia and Agia Roumeli, the others being through Agia Irini\/Figou gorges, or from Koustoyerako via Achlada and Linoseli, both reaching Xyloscala to then descend Samaria Gorge to Agia Roumeli.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1019\" style=\"width: 574px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/E4-path-starts-here.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1019\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1019\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/E4-path-starts-here.jpg\" alt=\"E4 path starts here\" width=\"574\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/E4-path-starts-here.jpg 574w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/E4-path-starts-here-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 574px) 100vw, 574px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1019\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">E4 path starts here<\/p><\/div>\n<p>A short walk back along the road took us to a turning SW, the surfaced road climbing gently then falling abruptly\u00a0 to a sharp bend, and a water cistern, where the E4 path heads off south. But first we went to \u201cinspect\u201d the mountain hut at Ghreleska,\u00a0 one km further, where the road ends.\u00a0 Built as an observatory to watch the rare \u201ckri-kri\u201d (and we were lucky enough to see two), it&#8217;s a substantial building, and would make a superb overnight stay ; more of this another time.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1020\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ghreleska-Hut.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1020\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1020\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ghreleska-Hut-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Ghreleska Hut\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ghreleska-Hut-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ghreleska-Hut.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1020\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ghreleska Hut<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Back on the trail, the waymarking (red paint dots, but concentrate on route-finding, it&#8217;s not easy at times,) led us for some 3km, contouring at around 1200m height under shady trees and over rocky limestone terrain, then dropping down to Olisma, where the path from Achlada joins from the east.\u00a0 A break here, then on down a rather loose gully, which, around fifteen minutes later, the path crossed, climbing a well-defined \u201ckalderimi\u201d or mule-trail.\u00a0 All too soon afterwards the path ends, joining a rough track at Agia Ekaterini.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1022\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Ekaterini.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1022\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1022\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Ekaterini-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Ag. Ekaterini\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Ekaterini-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ag.-Ekaterini.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1022\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ag. Ekaterini<\/p><\/div>\n<p>A story about the church (St. Catherine) ; in 1943, after the battle at Achlada (see below) when a number of German soldiers were killed, a group of local resistance fighters (\u201candartes\u201d) were hiding in a cave near here, as the enemy combed the area searching for them.\u00a0 One of the men had an icon of Agia Ekaterini, and they all prayed and swore that if they escaped the Germans, they would build a church in her honour.\u00a0 To seal the oath, they wrote their names on the icon. A thick mist descended on the mountain, forcing the Germans to abandon their search, and the &#8216;andartes&#8217; were able to survive.\u00a0 A church was built after the war, this one more recent, and a festival held annually on the 25th November.\u00a0 Nearby is a memorial to those killed hereabouts.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1023\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Memorial-to-andartes.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1023\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1023\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Memorial-to-andartes-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Memorial to 'andartes'\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Memorial-to-andartes-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Memorial-to-andartes.jpg 574w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1023\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Memorial to &#8216;andartes&#8217;<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Koustoyerako is still some way off, following the rough road (with some &#8216;short-cuts&#8217;) all the way into the village, which we reached some three hours after setting off.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1021\" style=\"width: 224px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Path-to-Koustoyerako.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1021\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1021\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Path-to-Koustoyerako-224x300.jpg\" alt=\"Path to Koustoyerako\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Path-to-Koustoyerako-224x300.jpg 224w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Path-to-Koustoyerako.jpg 574w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 224px) 100vw, 224px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1021\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Path to Koustoyerako<\/p><\/div>\n<p>And in the &#8216;platea&#8217; is a &#8216;kafeneio&#8217;,\u00a0 &#8211;\u00a0 \u201cAchlada\u201d &#8211;\u00a0 where refreshing drinks were most welcome.\u00a0 Meals are available too, but call first (28230 51092) for special requests or a large group.\u00a0 The history of Koustoyerako has been well-documented, as the centre of resistance fighting in this area over centuries, especially during the last war.\u00a0 The best book I know is \u201cVasili \u2013 the Lion of Crete\u201d, by Murray Elliott, which tells the story of Dudley Perkins, a New Zealander, one of many left behind after the German invasion of Crete in May 1941, and who joined local resistance groups.\u00a0 Chapters 7-13 are particularly relevant to this area.\u00a0 A film is currently being made of his life, to be called \u201cThe Straggler\u201d, and filmed in New Zealand, which will be fascinating.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1024\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Koustoyerako.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1024\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1024\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Koustoyerako-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Koustoyerako\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Koustoyerako-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Koustoyerako.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1024\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Koustoyerako<\/p><\/div>\n<p>To the immediate left of the kafeneio is a footpath to Livadas, descending terraces of almond and later olive trees, which avoids a much longer road walk.\u00a0 Below the village, 1.5km later, we left the road to take a track south for the final 2 km into Sougia, tantalisingly in view for some time, with its promise of more cold drinks, ice-cream and a swim in the Libyan Sea, before a \u201cmini-cruise\u201d\u00a0 back home to Paleohora on the good ship &#8216;Samaria&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Home-on-the-Samaria.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter  wp-image-1025\" src=\"http:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Home-on-the-Samaria-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Home on the 'Samaria'\" width=\"331\" height=\"247\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Home-on-the-Samaria-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/main\/domains\/thepaleochorasite.com\/public_html\/bobsblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Home-on-the-Samaria.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 331px) 100vw, 331px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nFor those interested, the &#8216;Samaria&#8217; was built in 1986, length 48m, capacity 368.07 gross tons, and can carry 850 passengers, 40 cars or 12 buses (and several kayaks) at a top speed of 13 mph. And there&#8217;s a bar on board \u2026.<\/p>\n<p>A long and serious day&#8217;s walk, this route is covered by the Anavasi Topo25 map (Samaria\/Sougia) and is described in \u201cThe High Mountains of Crete\u201d (Cicerone), both available at &#8216;To Delfini&#8217; bookshop in Paleochora.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<style>\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons {\n\t\t\t\tborder:0px solid #0FB5D6;\n\t\t\t\tborder-radius:5px;\n\t\t\t\tbackground:#3BD8FF;\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-top {margin-bottom:0px;}\n\t\t\t#huge-it-share-buttons-bottom {margin-top:0px;}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons h3 {\n\t\t\t\tfont-size:25px ;\n\t\t\t\tfont-family:Arial,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,sans-serif;\n\t\t\t\tcolor:#666666;\n\n\t\t\tdisplay:block;\t\t\t\tline-height:25px ;\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul {\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t margin:0px auto !important;text-align:center; \t\t\t}\n\n\t\t\t.huge-it-share-buttons ul li 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runs to Omalos, leaving Paleochora at 6.15am, is just that\u00a0 &#8211;\u00a0 the early morning departure is not to everyone&#8217;s liking, especially after a leisurely meal and maybe some relaxing drinks in the cool of a late evening in our village.\u00a0 But if you can make it &hellip; <\/p>\n<p><a class=\"more-link btn\" href=\"https:\/\/thepaleochorasite.com\/bobsblog\/e4-path-koustoyerako\/\">Continue reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2998,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[27,9,19,12,13,7,4,38,24,5,28,23,21],"class_list":["post-1017","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-bob-tait","tag-chania","tag-crete-gorge-walk","tag-hikes","tag-hiking","tag-kriti","tag-palaiohora","tag-paleochora","tag-paleochora-rooms","tag-paleohora","tag-the-paleochora-site","tag-walks-in-greece","tag-western-crete","item-wrap"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The E4 path to Koustoyerako<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Always a hotbed of resistance, the area around Koustoyerako is rugged and beautiful. 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