Explore!

Describing the route from Mesavlia to Malathiros (Walk 3 in our book  ‘More Walks from Paleohora’, see below), we note that “the hill to the right has ruined stone walls encircling its summit, and was probably fortified at some point in its history.”

That was in 2003.  Now there’s a board at the foot of the hill, indicating a footpath to the Byzantine Castle above.

The walk there and back from Mesavlia, with an ascent of the hill and exploration of the site makes for a pleasant autumn afternoon, and will fit in with the Ktel bus timetable.  Take the 12.00pm Chania bus from Paleohora to Mesavlia, asking to alight at the sign for the gorge, just before the village.  If driving (31km) turn down this road for 200m and park by the bridge.

Mesavlia is a scattered village, little of which can be seen from the main road.  Cross the bridge and walk along the road, through several clusters of houses, and after 1km reach the fork where a track leads down right into the gorge.  Avoid this and continue ahead, as the track climbs, passes an animal enclosure, levels out then falls, bending left to the col below the ‘castle’.

On the way, keep an eye out for the enormous griffon vultures almost always seen here, either circling above the gorge, or on the cliff ledges where they nest.  Last February Lynne and I watched as two huge adult birds, with a wing span of around three metres, suddenly flew off from the carcass of a goat, just below the track.  An awesome sight, and a little frightening!

From the sign/notice on the col, there’s a climb of 100 metres to the summit above at 602m.
Initially there is a path with blue waymarks, which soon give out, so look carefully for the feint path as it winds upwards, veering right.

The gorge from below the castle track

Go through a wire ‘gate’, then up a gully below a wall, using hands where necessary as the ‘path’ steepens.  Eventually, leading back left, pass through an enclosing wall, close to one of three ’sentry/lookout posts’ and into the ‘castle’.

Castle lookout

A pleasant hour or more can be spent exploring the site and enjoying the views.  Although it’s over rough ground and boulders, try to reach the summit, where there appears to be the remains of a well close to the concrete trig pillar. And keep a close watch on children, as there are fearsome drops into the Deliana/Mesavlia Gorge, some 250m below.  Just when the ‘castle’ was built is open to speculation and conjecture.  The Byzantine era dates from AD 330-1204, a period of 874 years, although between AD 824/961 Crete came under Arab rule.  After 1204 the island was occupied by the Venetians and later by others …..

Castle walls

As with the Dorian site at Kadros (see ‘Explore’ September 2009) it’s fascinating to sit among the ruins, and try to imagine the scene here many centuries ago.  The site would certainly have been an almost impregnable fortress during the many troubled times Crete has witnessed.

Byzantine walls

The views, if you’ve chosen a clear day for the climb, are quite outstanding.  Below to the north lies  Kissamos Bay between the arms of Gramvousa and Rodopou peninsulas. More distant are the White Mountains, and beyond Chania is the Akrotiri peninsula.  If you know where to look, you can pick out the Sassalos, Topolia and Sirikari gorges, all to the west.

View into Mesavlia Gorge and beyond from the Castle

Take your time on the descent back to the col, from where it’s 2km back to the starting point.  The bus (the last of the day!) leaving Chania at 4.15pm will pass around an hour later, but better to be sitting by the wooden bus shelter at 5.00pm, just in case it’s early.

‘More Walks from Paleohora’ on sale (€10) at ‘To Delfini’ bookshop in the village centre.

Tags: hania, paleochora, greece, paleohora, , holidays, crete, chania

A small problem with the daily morning ferry from Paleochora to Sougia and beyond during early July  -  there wasn’t one.  With the ‘Samaria’ out of action, the larger vessel ‘Daskalogiannis’ operated a different schedule, arriving from Sfakia around 1.30pm, and setting off back almost immediately.  This, though unsuitable for walkers descending the Samaria or Agia Irini gorge, who could not return “home”, was perfect for my plan to kayak along the coast from Sougia to Loutro, with an overnight camp on one of the many beaches.

At 3pm, with the distant ferry now heading for Agia Roumeli, I paddled steadily out of Sougia in the same direction.  I’ve described this journey before (see ‘Explore’ - June 2009), so suffice to say that I stretched legs at Tripiti and the far end of Domata beach before approaching Agia Roumeli in the cool of the evening.  I was tempted to go ashore briefly, but there was every chance of meeting Andreas (Stavroudakis) at the Tarra restaurant, and leaving with a raki-spinning head an hour later.  I hoped he wouldn’t see me paddling by and be offended!

Kayak and Chapel at Agios Pavlos

I passed below the precipitous Eligas gorge, which we descended some years ago at the end of an epic four-day walk through the White Mountains, including an ascent of Pachnes, highest of all at 2453m.  Then along to the beach at Agios Pavlos, with its beautiful Byzantine chapel, and not-so-beautiful taverna and rooms close by.  Two moored speedboats and loud music from inside persuaded me to move on, until at 8pm I beached the kayak below the ‘Selouda’, where a steep footpath finds a way up through cliffs to the village of Agios Ioanis.

A swim first, then the tent was quickly erected and a meal enjoyed as dusk fell.  Tea, pasta (one which Lynne had made earlier!), cheese & biscuits, fruit, and more tea.  Venus appeared in the western sky, the scent of the pine forest behind became stronger as the day cooled, and waves broke leisurely on the shingle below the tent.  It doesn’t come much better than this.  The lights finally went out at the taverna along the coast, and the world was left “to darkness and to me.”

My accommodation for the night

Sunset from my tent

Strains of Liszt on the mobile phone woke me at 5.45am next morning, and ten minutes’ later I was up, the tent down and the stove lit.  A large bowl of home-made “granola”, an annual and much-appreciated gift from Carol (Popi) for expeditions like this, would set me up for the journey to Loutro.  The sun was already hitting the high summits above the Samaria Gorge as I launched into a flat calm sea at 6.30am, but heading to Cape Plaka I was in shade.  But only briefly, as, in Browning’s lovely couplet :
” Round the cape of a sudden came the sea, and the sun looked over the mountain’s rim.”

...and the sun looked over the mountain's rim

Another hot day ahead!  It’s more than 5km to Marmara Bay (Marble Beach), over an hour’s kayaking, and with with no possible landing place en route I was glad to spend fifteen minutes ashore, and walk up to the foot of the Aradena Gorge.  Later this small beach would be crowded as visitors arrived on foot or by small boat from Loutro, but now I was alone, enjoying the tranquillity of what was still early morning.

Both Likkos and Finikas (often Phoenix) have grown since Lynne and I came here twenty years ago.  Now rooms and tavernas offer opportunities to escape the stresses of modern life - to relax, walk, swim, or - as at Loutro, take a canoe out for the day.  Both were coming to life as I passed by around 8am, but the small fishing boats, their occupants waving to me, were returning home.

The approach to Loutro, around Cape Moures then (by kayak at least) through the gap between the mainland and little Fanari islet, is simply stunning.  How many millions of photographs have been taken from the ferries as they turn into Loutro Bay?  Despite the threat of a road, Loutro is still only accessible on  foot or by boat, and hopefully will remain so.  Loutro is everyone’s idyllic Greek island village, with blue and white buildings lining the water’s edge, enormous cliffs behind, and even after many visits I still find it captivating.

The kayak moored at Loutro

I had time for a stroll around (it doesn’t take long!) and a second breakfast at the Blue House before the ‘Daskalogiannis’ arrived from Sfakia.  Relaxing on deck, enjoying the coastline on one side, and watching (unsuccessfully) for dolphins on the other, I was quite content that, to paraphrase Kipling, I’d more than filled the unremitting previous twenty-four hours.

Big boat, little boat

Before anyone comments, of course solo sea-kayaking is potentially dangerous and inadvisable, but  ….. competent friends were working or elsewhere, and conditions were just perfect.  And as Hazlitt observed, “one of the pleasantist things in the world is going on a journey  -  but I like to go by myself.”

If you can’t get hold of a kayak, the 14km/5 hr walk from Agia Roumeli to Loutro is equally enjoyable (though not in August!) and described in our book  “More Walks from Paleohora”, available from ‘To Delfini’ bookshop.

Tags: paleochora, holidays, crete, chania, , greece, hania, paleohora

Looking to be outdoors in July and August, yet staying cool when temperatures in Paleohora reach the high 30s? Why not explore the Azogires underground system?

You’ll need to make an early start, either by car or taxi to Azogires, or take the 6.15am ‘bus, arriving there 15 minutes later. In the cool of the morning, take the road (left) climbing west out of the village , which leads to the Cave of the 99 Saints. Steadily uphill for 2km, the road passes two hamlets off to the right, and the (incomplete) church of St. John the Russian, then becomes a track, swinging right to a gate, from where a footpath slants uphill towards the rock ridge above, with a prominent white cross . Finally the path drops suddenly through a narrow cleft to the cave entrance.

Now the legend of the cave. Once upon a time ….. around the 14th century, a group of 99 Holy Saints came to live in a cave above Azogires. One day their leader, John, left to live a solitary life on the Akrotiri peninsula near Chania, but before leaving, the saints made a pact - that if any one of them should die, so too would all the others. Some time later, John, wearing a sheepskin to keep out the cold, was mistaken for an animal by a hunter, shot with an arrow and killed. The same day villagers found the remaining saints had all died of natural causes.

Stalactites hang from the ceilings

Later, bones from the cave were buried at a place below Azogires where a plane tree now grows - extraordinary in that it is evergreen and not the usual deciduous. The tree’s branches grow to form crosses, and according to legend, when 99 crosses have appeared, the tree will die.

And if you believe all that …… but back to the cave entrance! At the foot of iron ladders is a shrine to the 99 Saints, and the more intrepid can explore further into the depths. But never go alone, and ensure you carry a spare torch with you; if you drop or break your only torch, or the batteries run out, it could be serious. Below the shrine is a narrow passage, with a wire cable as a guide, leading to a wooden ladder, and a scramble to where another ladder drops to a huge chamber where the cave system ends, and another small shrine. Dripping stalactites hang from the walls and roof, and maybe some bats.

Exit from the cave is by the same route; climb out into the sunlight and walk back down to Azogires for breakfast at the Alpha cafe/restaurant, where ‘Lucky’ will tell you more about the village, its history and legends. On the wall is a large-scale diagram of the cave system.

If it’s not too hot, walk out of the village to the turning to Asfendiles, 1 km away. The road en route runs above the Azoghirianos river, where there are small waterfalls and pools just deep enough to dip into and cool off. Turn right on the Asfendiles road, and after half a km look for a gate (with a sign) indicating the ‘Koukoutsakis’ caves, belonging to Lucky’s family, and used by shepherds. Only small, and not too easily located, don’t worry if you miss them!

Continue along the road to take a rough track right, sloping down and around the hillside, then keep left to the ‘Carved caves of Ancient Azogires’. The lower cave is easily reached by a metal ladder, but the climb to the main cave is more intimidating! The carved steps and handrail are recent, prior to which rock-climbing techniques were required. ‘Lucky’ tells of how, during German and Turkish occupations, and long before then in Roman times, the village women and children were hauled up in baskets to safety whenever danger threatened. Tall pine trees hid the entrance in former times, and it’s easy to see how people could be kept hidden out of harm’s way.

Still not for vertigo sufferers!

There’s a great view from the cave (if you get there) over the valley to Azogires village. Below are the remains of an old Turkish settlement, and you can pick out the ruined Turkish fort on the ridge opposite. Back at ground level, look for the plaque which, if you can read Greek, tells you more about the site.

How's your Greek?

Retrace your steps, and at the fork turn left, downhill. When the track meets the path to Anidri turn right, following blue painted waymarking towards Azogires, passing first the old schoolhouse and then the Monastery, visiting the museum there if it’s open. On reaching the bridge, you could cross to see the ‘Forever Green Platanos tree’ and on up to the village, or, better, keep right to the older stone bridge and then follow waymarking to meet the road.

View down to the village from the cave

The ‘Alpha’ is a little way below, and if it’s approaching lunch-time you could sample the ’specialite de maison’ - ‘Sofia’s World Famous Omelette’.

'Lucky' at the Alpha Cafe

Lucky may know when (or if!) the bus returns through the village, or will call a taxi for you. Failing that there’s an 8km walk down to Paleohora, with every chance of hitching a lift back into town.

Tags: , chania, greece, crete, paleochora, hania, paleohora, holidays

This-a-way

Or That-a-way?

The walk through the gorge between Deliana and Mesavlia is one of our favourites, and described in our book ‘More Walks from Paleohora’ (see below.)  Our route approaches Deliana from the west, through the village of Malathyros, but here’s an equally pleasant alternative which reaches Deliana from the east, by way of the even smaller village of Kalami.

Distant view of the gorge

This walk fits in with the ‘bus schedules, taking the 7.15am from Paleohora, returning on the bus leaving Chania at 12.45pm, and gives ample time of over five hours for a distance of around 12km.  Or drive 2km beyond Mesavlia, and park on the highest point of the road over to Chania, overlooking the gorge (just where the road begins to descend.)

Start from the small roadside hut, ‘Honey from the Bee-keeper’, where local honey is on sale during the summer months. (Ask on the bus to stop at ’spiti meli’.)  Walk on towards Chania, then after some 200m turn sharp left on a track winding downhill between vineyards.  After a short distance pass through a gate, closing it carefully after you, as there are many sheep in this valley.  The track leads pleasantly downhill through olive groves, eventually, after around 2km (30 mins) swinging right, more steeply, towards the village of Kalami. Left of the track, surrounded by cypress trees, is the church of St. John the Theologian, worth the short diversion through olive trees.

Walking the gorge path

The path from the church re-joins the main track and leads towards the tiny village.  On reaching the surfaced road below the village turn left, then almost immediately left again on a descending track, which will take you to Deliana, 2km distant.  On the way, a sharp left turn after 1km will take you directly to the gorge, avoiding the village.  Continue past another small church, less interesting, and when the track meets a surfaced road, turn left into Deliana, where there are several cafes for a mid-morning coffee or early lunch.

Walk over the bridge, through Deliana, and be sure to visit the church of Agios Ioannis, which has exceptional frescos.  On the outskirts of the village turn left on the track indicating ‘Gorge of Deliana’, and 15 mins later reach the entrance to the gorge. With picnic tables under shady plane trees, and a water tap nearby, it’s a delightful place to rest awhile.

Perfect for a Picnic

The gorge, though short, is impressive - not on the scale of Agia Irini (see May’s ‘Explore’) or Samaria of course, but delightful to walk through.  In winter or early spring you may have to paddle or wade across some or all of the six shallow fords in the lower part (so take a small towel!)

Permanent resident of the gorge but does he know which gorge?

There’s a mystery here, for a short way up the gorge (of Deliana) there are signs that it’s actually the Gorge of Mesavlia.  Both the administrative areas (dimos) of Kolimbari and Voukolies claim it as their own,  a dispute long unresolved.  No matter, you will have enjoyed walking through both the Gorge of Deliana and Mesavlia in the space of half an hour!

Climbing steadily, watch out for the enormous griffon vultures which are frequently seen soaring above the gorge, and nest in the immense limestone cliffs.  Pass the little church of Agia Paraskevi, tucked under a rock face, after which the stony track steepens to meet a wider track (to Malathyros).  Turn left, then walk through the scattered houses of Mesavlia village, cross over a little stream, and finally up to the main road and bus shelter.

The bus to Paleohora passes approx. 1 hour after leaving Chania  -  or if you’ve parked near the start of the walk,  you’ve still another 2km back to the car ……

‘More Walks from Paleohora’ on sale (only) at ‘To Delfini’ bookshop in the village centre.

Tags: paleochora, paleohora, hania, holidays, , chania, greece, crete

Agia Irini Gorge

Whisper it not at Omalos, but many discerning people consider the lesser known gorge of Agia Irini, to the north of Sougia, to be equally as impressive, scenic and enjoyable as the famous Samaria Gorge to the east.  It’s not as long of course, and at 7km is less than half the distance of Samaria.  Nor as deep, descending from 600m, whereas the Samaria Gorge drops from 1250m to sea level.  But whilst up to two thousand visitors a day in high summer will set off to walk down through Samaria to Agia Roumeli, the total enjoying the peace and tranquility of the Irini Gorge might not even reach double figures.

There are several ways to arrange a visit to Agia Irini.  The easiest is to book a tour with one of the travel agents in Paleohora ; a coach or mini-bus leaving around 8am will drop you at the top about an hour later, where there is a small cafe for breakfast or to buy a picnic lunch.
The walk through the gorge takes up to three hours, and at the exit (and ‘Oasis’ cafe) the waiting coach will take you into Sougia for a swim and to relax on the beach.  Then a ride back to Paleohora arriving c.4.30pm, or the option to wait in Sougia for the ‘Samaria’ ferry back.

An alternative is to take the 6.15am K-Tel bus to Agia Irini, and enjoy the early morning freshness of the gorge.  There are several ‘rest areas’ with picnic tables and a water supply, and by the time you reach the ‘Oasis’ at the end, the cafe will be open for a fresh orange juice or Amstel/Mythos.  The ’sting in the tail’ is a road walk of 5.5km into Sougia, but then a relaxing afternoon before the ferry (leaving approx. 6.30pm, May to Oct).

The Route Explained

A car gives more flexibility, and can be combined with the Sougia/Chania bus service (check in the bus station for schedules, or contact www.bus-service-crete-ktel.com)  One recent Sunday, friends and I drove over to Moni and caught the 1.30pm bus out of Sougia for the 40-minute journey to Agia Irini, and an afternoon walk down the gorge.  There’s normally a small  fee payable, but both cafe and entrance kiosk were deserted in mid-April.  Crossing the fast-flowing river by a wooden footbridge, we set off under the shade of leafy plane trees into the gorge.

Hiking in the gorge

The trail is easy to follow, level at first, then with a short climb and longer descent to the first picnic area.  The path crosses and re-crosses the dry riverbed, the water now having filtered underground.  Pine trees above, with wild flowers and various herbs, predominantly sage, all combined to give that unique olfactory experience which is Crete in Spring.  With no urgency, or need to hurry for a bus or ferry, we meandered down the gorge,  enjoying the scenery which unfolds around every turn.  And appreciating the solitude, for in almost three hours we saw not one other person.

Agia Irini Gorge

Lower down the gorge

At the exit the ‘Oasis’, as we anticipated, was closed, opening in May.  A sign in the car park indicates ‘Sougia - 5.5km’, and nearby, for tired legs, is the ‘phone number of the local taxi service.  After 600m along the road we reached a junction, with a small church left and an old Venetian stone bridge right.  Sougia is ahead, around an hour’s walk away, but we turned right, on a track leading to the 14th century church of Agios Nikolaus, surrounded by (tasty!) orange and mandarin trees, and with a unique ‘campanile’ adjacent.  Entering the church by the front gate, we left by the rear and followed the track up into Moni, emerging into the village by the cafenion, and our parked cars.

The Bell Tower at Moni

Towards the lower reaches of the gorge, the path drops over boulders where hands may be necessary, but this apart the gorge of Agia Irini is a fine route for the average walker.  The more adventurous may like to include the very worthwhile and recommended Figou ravine at the start of the walk, described in detail in our book ‘Ten Walks from Paleohora’ (see below.)  This extension adds around two hours, joining the main gorge 1 km beyond the start, and as a bonus, it will save you the entry fee …..

‘Ten Walks around Paleohora’ and ‘More Walks from Paleohora’ on sale at ‘To Delfini’
bookshop in the centre of Paleohora.

Tags: crete, holidays, chania, paleohora, , greece, paleochora, hania

Anyone considering hiring a bike and planning a cycle ride from Paleohora should bear in mind  the first verse of Christina Rossetti’s poem ‘Up-Hill’ :

‘Does the road wind up-hill all the way ?’
‘Yes, to the very end.’
‘Will the day’s journey take the whole long day ?’
‘From morn to night, my friend.’
That’s certainly true (almost) if you cycle up to Sklavopoula, as three friends and I did at the end of March.  The climb of 20km and over 700m ascent took us around 3.5 hrs, although we stopped off in Voutas (for water) and in Moustakos for traditional and spontaneous Cretan hospitality.

Moustakos

As we rested in the village centre, Maria and Andreas brought us the inevitable raki, with plates of hazel nuts and small fish (merida), and told us more about the village. Fifty years ago, Maria said, there were a hundred inhabitants, but now just twenty permanent residents, and it’s a lonely life for the elderly in winter, being so isolated.  She lives in Chania, and was spending Easter in the family home.  From Sklavopoula, after lemonade and kalitsounia in the little cafenion, we freewheeled 16km back to Paleohora in just 40 minutes.

Easier rides out of Paleohora are east to Ianniscari (Anidri) beach, 4km each way, and for the more energetic, a climb of 5km and 200m to Anidri village, for lunch or mezedes in the former school, now ‘To Scolio’ taverna.  West of the town are the beaches of Grammeno,  5km each way, and Krios (8km e.w), although traffic along the road can be both fast and furious, and dangerous for cycling.

Here’s a challenging ride of 32km (20m), suitable for fit cyclists with low-geared machines. Set off early, and carry water and sun-protection.  Take the main Kandanos road north out of Paleohora for 3km to the Azogires turn, where the road really does wind steeply uphill for 2km, then gradually eases off into the village.  With half the climbing completed - although only a quarter of the distance - you’ve earned a drink and rest in the ‘Alpha’ cafe.

Azogires

Continue out of the village for 1km, with waterfalls in the little river below, then turn right, signposted ‘Asfendiles 3′, and ride through a ford, where water flows until high summer.  As the road  steadily gains height the views widen, with Paleohora now in sight way below.

The Ford at Azogires

Above and beyond Asfendiles the surfaced road becomes a rough track for around 2km, as it climbs to the next village, Platanes.  On a distinctive bend, pass by the old schoolhouse, sadly now derelict, which served the two villages, but what a place to go to school!  Far below is the sea, glimmering in the distance, and the road snaking downhill towards it.  A long descent to look forward to after all the exertion.

Admiring the View at Platanes

High above the road is Yrtakina, a Dorian hill site well worth a visit, but more of that another time.  On the left is a spring of ice-cold water, which will be much appreciated after the climb of around 760m (2,500ft) from sea level.  Now the road is surfaced again, and a road junction reached.  It’s practically all downhill from here, with 17km of freewheeling through Prodromi (4km) and Anidri (12km) back to Paleohora.  It’s advisable to wear a helmet now, as there are no roadside barriers, and with possible rocks and goats around every bend, a fall at speed could be serious.

If only there was one which gushed cold beer

Prodromi is a small hill village dominated by the church of Aghios Charalambos, and with great views, if you’re cycling slow enough to appreciate them.  Further down at Anidri, a tap opposite the ‘To Scolio’  will provide more water, although the cafenion is really too good to pass by. Some 15 minutes later, after riding through a scenic mini-gorge, you’ll be back in Paleohora.

The turnoff to Prodromi

If you’re looking for guided cycle tours, contact Hellas Bikes (www.hellasbike.net) who organise day & half-day tours, largely downhill, graded between Very Easy & Difficult.  They also promote ‘Master Open Races’ for serious racing cyclists.  A Master Race weekend in Paleohora over June 12th/13th includes a time-trial, and a long-distance race from Paleohora to Chania.  And of course I’ll be there at the start line of the race ……. but just watching!

Tags: paleochora, chania, hania, crete, paleohora, , greece, holidays

Summer time begins officially on the 28th March, and the Vernal (Spring) Equinox falls the previous week. But there has been evidence of spring and summer long ago here in Crete, where the winter has been pleasantly mild.   Pastel-shaded anemones appeared last November, dwarf iris in January, the spectacular bee-orchids in February, and the first hoopoe was spotted on 16th February, far earlier than usual.

Wild Iris

Now in early March we have almond and wild pear blossom in profusion, and bright yellow gorse is beginning to cover the hillsides. Climate change is to our advantage.

Here’s a short circular walk from Sougia guaranteed to put a spring in your step. It’s around 6km, or two hours, but pause to enjoy the scenery, photograph flowers and enjoy a (recommended) picnic lunch, and it will take you twice as long. Although not difficult, it’s not an easy walk either, being rocky underfoot, so tread carefully. From Sougia walk west to the harbour, and then turn right into the mini-gorge (Kakos Potamos), where runs the E4 path to Lissos and on to Paleohora (see below). Look out for the extraordinary Dragon Lily (Dracungulus vulgaris) plants which grow here, and you may detect the nauseating smell before seeing them!

Bee Orchids

After some 15 mins, when the gorge narrows, pass below huge overhanging rock faces. Soon afterwards the path to Lissos forks left, climbing steeply out of the gorge.

Overhanging walls of the gorge

Our walk continues ahead, on a faint path occasionally marked with cairns. After approx. another 15 minutes, look for a large, distinctive pine tree, with a large red painted circle on the lower trunk. Leave the gorge at this point, climbing right, and following a way-marked route of red paint dots. Who marked this route remains a mystery, but ‘Epharisto’ whoever it was. After a steep ascent of 10/15 minutes the path drops into and skirts around a hollow.

Lynne enjoying the view

Keep following the waymarking, as the path winds between rocks and trees, at a height of c.250m above sea level. There are superb views along the south coast, and on a clear day the islands of Gavdos and Gavdopoula are visible some 50km distant to the SE.

Eventually the path rises to meet an old bull-dozed track. Follow this right, descending and curving first right and then left, alongside a wire fence.

Agia Irini Church

A rough track leads downhill, then take a sharp right turn through fencing, and a short detour to the delightfully situated small church of Agia Irini, dating from the 12th century. A place to rest awhile and relax. Below the church the track winds down to the outskirts of Sougia, where you must decide whether to turn left into the village and cafes, or right to the sea and a swim. A tough decision ………

Looking down to Sougia

There is more to Sougia then meets the eye. Visit www.sougia.com for further information.

The route from Sougia to Paleohora (and nine more!) is described in our book ‘Ten Walks around Paleohora’, available from ‘To Delfini’ bookshop in the village centre.

Tags: chania, hania, paleochora, paleohora, holidays, greece, , crete

Simply Hike (ad over on the right) are offering free delivery on all orders over £100 until 31st. March 2010. Just enter this voucher code when you make your order: MAR3P

Tags: crete, , greece, paleochora, paleohora, chania, holidays, hania

Several readers (okay, three actually) left appreciative comments after our kayak trip from Agia Roumeli to Sougia (see ‘Explore’, June 2009), and others, local residents and visitors, have asked if we’ve paddled from Paleochora to Sougia around Akrotiri (Cape) Flomes - the head of the ‘Crocodile’. Yes, many times, and backwards too - not literally obviously, but the journey between Paleochora and Sougia in either direction, on foot or by kayak, is the ‘classic’ in this area.

But while the walk from Paleochora to Sougia measures 16km, with 560m of ascent, and takes 5/6 hours, the distance by kayak - on a calm flat sea - is just 14km (or 7.5 nautical miles), and at an average speed of 4 kph takes around 3.5 hrs. This is ‘kayak time’ of course, and breaks at Ianniscari (Anidri) beach, ‘Thunder Cove’ and Lissos, to stretch legs, picnic and swim, add as much time again.

Thunder Cove

An especially enjoyable voyage to Sougia was last June, with Dominique and her ‘crew’ of ‘Chausette’ on the bows of the kayak. We launched from Votsala (the ’stony beach’) around 11.00am, with just a slight swell on the sea, practically no wind and of course sunny. The long beach at Keratides was deserted except for Carol (Popi) waving us ‘Bon voyage’ or rather ‘Kalo Taxidi’ from the shore. Rounding the narrow spit of rocks beyond which are the two Ianniscari beaches, we looked up the gorge to the once little Cretan village, now sprawling metropolis of Anidri. The water is shallow here, but as clear as crystal, so ’siga ,siga’ - slowly, slowly - there is little danger of grounding. A few weeks previously I had floated close to a pair of black-winged stilts standing on the rocks here, beautiful wading birds with strikingly long pink legs, who had only taken flight when I was just metres away. Now they had migrated further north.

An hour after leaving Votsala we came ashore on the shingle beach, with onlookers amazed as always to see a small dog leaping from the front of the kayak. Ten minutes to stretch our legs, two and four, then on to ‘Thunder Cove’, a tiny secluded beach hidden away behind Cape Plakes. The name, we think, derives from the noise the surf makes, crashing through small caves in rough seas. Calm today though, and ideal for a swim and lunch in the shade.

An interesting digression here : in June 2008 two Italians, Salvatore Bartoli and Giacomo Della Gatta, set off from Myrtos to kayak (clockwise) around the entire coastline of Crete, returning there 19 days later after paddling 400 nautical miles (740 km). On Day 6 they kayaked from Loutro to Paleochora, 23 n/miles (43km), stayed the night with local fishermen, and next day continued around Elafonisi to Cape Mouros, a further 15m (23km). Their daily log, and some superb photos, can be seen on www.kayakextreme.net

There’s no possible landing between Thunder Cove and Lissos, some 6km and 1.5 hrs away around Akrotiri Flomes, or ‘Cape Crocodile’. The sea-cliffs here are magnificent, and not a little intimidating - impressive from the passing ferry, and even more so from a kayak floating directly underneath 100m of sheer limestone!

Approaching The Sea Cave

Once safely around the headland we made for the great cave I’ve seen referred to as ‘Elides’ or ‘Dinees’, only accessible of course from the sea.   Inhabited by nesting crag martins and pigeons, it measures some 30m deep, and gave us welcome shade on a hot June afternoon. Another stunning place to be in a kayak!

Inside the Cave

The beach at Lissos is set deep in Aghios Kirikos bay, and sadly is tar-polluted. We trod carefully and swam, and after Captain George’s taxi-boat called to collect some ‘day-trippers’, we had the place to ourselves. Tempting though it was to wander around the fascinating remains of Ancient Lissos in the late afternoon, journey’s end was still 2km distant. After half an hour’s steady paddling below sea-cliffs still sizeable, if not as dramatic as previously, we eased into the tiny harbour at Sougia.

Sougia

“Dog days don’t come any better than this,” I remarked to Chausette as we relaxed on the beach, waiting for the ‘Samaria’ ferry to take us back to Paleohora. But Chausette only speaks French, and was in any case fast asleep.

I’m often asked if there are kayak hire facilities, or opportunities for day trips such as this in Paleohora. Unfortunately no, but contact www.seakayakcrete.com who run kayak holidays based in Loutro, further along the coast.

Tags: holidays, paleohora, paleochora, hania, chania, crete, , greece

Quick note to say that Simply Hike (ad over to the right here) is offering a £5 discount to all orders over £50 until 31st.January. The promotion code to use is JAN50.

Tags: hania, , crete, holidays, greece, paleohora, paleochora, chania